Memories of Africa

They say that once you have visited Africa, it gets into your blood. You have to go back. I spent two years in Algeria, in northern Africa in the mid eighties. I have not been back yet, but I often do go back in my mind.

Turmoil

Algeria is most known for the images of bloodshed on the news in the late eighties and early nineties. When I was there, the country was fairly permissive. Women in large cities wore western style clothes, high heels, make-up. They had their hair cut short. They smoked and sat in cafes gabbing with girlfriends. In small towns it was not so rosy, but all the same, I went to a school where the French teacher, an Algerian woman, did not cover her face even though she was married. Her husband had not paid for the bride because the families were modern and progressive. She was an exception though. Generally, men did the shopping and the going out and women stayed home. Even at weddings, there was a room for men and a separate room for women. All in all the country seemed peaceful and fairly prosperous. There were two harvests a year (down from three during the French occopation).

Even in 1984 though, you could feel disquiet. What we did not know was that the fundamentalist underground was very active. The president responded by stationing troops at each border, which meant long columns of armoured cars and trucks filled with soldiers traversing the country. Often they went at night, but everyone was aware they were passing. It was a show of force.

Quickly, things escalated and the fundamentalists began a very bloody uprising. We were long gone by then and in the safety of Canada.

Jewel of the Mediterranean

As soon as you mention Africa to someone, they picture jungles and roaring lions. When you speak of Arab countries, they see deserts and nomads. Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya are all located on the Mediterranean coast and the landscape in the coastal region is closer to that of the south of France or Spain. The Romans knew it. There are many remains of Roman cities in Algeria. The soil is fertile, the grapes grow well, and the climate is very pleasant. The summers can get hot, but there is always a refreshing breeze from the sea.

Coastal Road by Bejaia. Image Source.

Even in the eighties, tourists visited the Algerian coast. When we first arrived, we stayed a few days in Zeralda, a coastal suburb of Algiers and a popular tourist destination. It was an absolutely lovely town. We stayed at a hotel across the street from a row of white bungalows on the beach. Beyond them, there was the azure sea. A few days of bliss later we departed for Ain Defla, where my dad had his contract.

View of Algiers. Image Source.

Attractions

The beaches are not the only attractions in the Magreb (the Arab Mediterranean region). There are many man-made and natural wonders in Algeria. One is Notre Dame D’Afrique, a huge cathedral built by the French on the western side of Algiers and overlooking the sea.

In this picture, it is obviously undergoing restoration, perhaps after the fighting of the late eighties. Image Source.

In a small town nearby Tipasa there stands a large pyramid-like structure that is rumoured to be the tomb of Cleopatra’s daughter.

For those preferring natural wonders, there is the Hoggar, a peak among mountians seemingly sticking out of the desert floor.

Image Source.

The city of Ghardaia in the Sahara boasts five oasis’, with date palm groves, mosques and pastel houses built up in the shape of five hills.

The Berbers inhabit vast regions of the country. They shock with their blond hair and blue eyes and mountain habits. They are also great artists, making complex metal wares.

Berber earrings in silver. Image Source.

There are many more treasures and beauties, enough to fill ten articles, not just one.

I believe tourism has picked up once again in Algeria, so if you have a chance, I really recomment a visit. As for me, it will just have to be in my dreams for now.