Trifter

“Miss, miss, you are getting up now! Miss! Miss!” There is a loud banging at my door, which continues relentlessly until I finally call out; “Yes, thank you, I’m awake!”

I look at my watch – 2 a.m. I groan and turn to go back to sleep, but then remember that I had ordered a 2 a.m. wake up call because tonight I will attempt to conquer Adam’s Peak.

Also known as Sri Pada meaning Sacred Footprint and Samanalakanda in Sinhalese meaning butterfly mountain, Adam’s Peak is located in the heart of Sri Lanka and is the nation’s second highest peak at a mighty 2,243 metres of 7,359 feet.

All is dark as I walk through the tiny village of Dalhousie. At the foot of the mountain are a large number of stalls selling everything from ice cream to shell necklaces and rubber masks, essential items for this moonlight hike. Many people call out to me as I pass, trying to interest me in their wares.

The path up the mountain is well trodden and there are steps provided to make the going easier. 6,000 steps in all, although I try my best not to think about this fact, or the fact that I must travel roughly 14 kilometres or 9 miles to reach the top of the mountain and back to the where I now stand.

The climb is said to take 2½ to 4 hours. Sunrise occurs just before 6 a.m. and I have allowed myself the full 4 hours, just to be on the safe side.

Before I start, I pause to take a good look around me. The path is lit every few meters by a street lamp, so it is easy to distinguish the shape of the mountain. Everything is in silhouette apart from the lamps and the twinkling stars. I take a deep breath, pray for my strength to last all the way to the top, and begin my climb.

The first part of the climb is easy. The mountain is not too steep and I feel optimistic as I pass other climbers. Already, eager pilgrims are making their way back down the mountain. They probably began their climb too early and got to cold waiting at the top for the sun to rise. Still, they look cheerful enough as they pass, looking forward to a good sleep, no doubt.

After about 30 minutes of climbing, the mountain becomes much steeper. Many of the steps are broken and the climb is more strenuous. I pause to catch my breath and am surprised to see a very skinny and wrinkled woman with a hunched back climbing past me effortlessly. She hadn’t even broken into a sweat! I hang my head in shame and begin to climb once more.

After another 20 minutes I need a break and welcome the chance to get warm at a tea stand. There are dozens of tea stands lining the path up Adam’s Peak, and for those like me who aren’t quite as fit as they should be, these tea stands are like the answer to a silent prayer, offering somewhere to sit, conversation, flowing tea and sugary snacks.

As I climb, the steps become even steeper. I fix my sights on the light on the very top of the mountain, but somehow it seems to keep getting further away from me. People cheer me on from the tea stalls as I pass, offering words of encouragement. I remind myself that these merchants must have made the climb up the mountain laden with their wares many times and force myself not to give up.

Just as I’m beginning to think I must be nearly at the top, the climb becomes practically vertical and every step is an effort, my muscles screaming in protest. Now it is a real effort to move and I have to use all my willpower to force one foot in front of the other, pausing every 10 steps or so to get my breath back.

Finally, I reach the top and let out a sigh of relief. It is now 5:45 – my journey has taken about 3½ hours.

There are a large number of myths and legends surrounding Adam’s Peak, which is one of Sri Lanka’s most prominent and sacred landmarks. The traditional Pali name for the mountain is Sri Pada, which means sacred foot. This refers to the giant footprint at the mountain’s summit.

The footprint is revered by many different religions, all of which have their own legends about the 5 foot 7 inches long by 2 feet 6 inches wide print. Buddhist legend tells that the print was made by Lord Buddha during his final journey to Sri Lanka.

Hindus believe that the footprint was made by the mighty god Shiva, while Arab and Christian legends tell how this was the first place Adam set foot after being expelled from the Garden of Eden.

As I approach, I see that there are about 100 people at the top of the mountain, all shivering together in the pre-dawn half-light as they wait for the sunrise. On this lofty perch we are actually above the cloud line and a few minutes later when the sun begins to appear the sight is an intense explosion of colour, the brightest and most varied I have ever seen.

As the sun slowly illuminates the seen I realise that the view is absolutely fantastic: I can see for miles across mighty forests to sparkling rivers and rich green and brown land.

Once the sun is risen I stay to witness the sunrise ceremony, where priests from the temple atop the mountain chant and say prayers to welcome the dawn. I walk around the summit to see the scene from all angles and finally witness the shadow cast by the mountain, a sight that has inspired centuries of poetry and writing.

Finally, the temperature rises dramatically and it is time to make my descent. Going back down the mountain is quite tricky as the steps are uneven and before long my poor legs are shaking from the effort. Still, I have the day to myself and take it easy, enjoying the view as I go.

Finally, I am back at my guesthouse. I celebrate my triumph with a delicious breakfast of rice and fresh vegetables and a long soak in the herbal spa. Absolute heaven.

Information:

The best time to make your climb is between December and April. The area experiences heavy monsoon rains from May to October, so expect the climb to be damp with heavy clouds during this time.

Make sure you get plenty of rest before the climb, wear comfortable shoes such as hiking boots of sneakers and warm clothing for the top of the mountain.

Where to Stay:

The climb up Adam’s Peak can be attempted from several of the small villages in the area, but it is probably easiest to use Dalhousie as a base. Here you will find a warm welcome a range of guesthouses to choose from as well as local knowledge and advice.

The River View Wathsala Inn offers basic, no frills accommodation and restaurant in a picturesque setting. Rooms cost Rs 450-1,500

Tel: 052-227 7427

Yellow House has good food and comfortable rooms with hot water. Single rooms cost RS 330, while doubles cost Rs 440.

Tel: 051-222 3958

Green House is the perfect place to prepare for your climb and chill out afterwards. The herbal baths are a great place to soak away aches and pains and delicious meals are served in a very pretty garden. Rooms cost Rs 400-500.

Tel: 051-222 3956