Trifter

Samar is considered as one of the most depressed provinces in the Philippines. Because of this tag, some people would actually think that people in Samar are malnourished and have nothing to eat so visitors of the island would be surprised that they could not find any group of people with big bellies or are too thin because of malnutrition. Some would actually agree that Samar is one untouched paradise with it’s lush vegetation, white endless beaches, enchanting inland bodies of water and most importantly, friendly people. There are just too many spots for the tourist to explore.

But there is trouble in paradise.

Insurgency issues

Since the late 70’s, there is a popular revolt led by the New People’s Army, the armed wing of the Communist Party of the Philippines and they are operating in the countryside, including the hinterlands of Samar. The lush vegetation and difficult terrain became a perfect hideout of the armed group. Their issues are very simple: equal opportunities, land for the landless and genuine economic programs for the poor. The government’s counter-insurgency programs led to the military presence in the countryside. Anyone that the military suspect of sympathizing with the rebels is “invited” to the military camps and is subjected to different kinds of torture. Several disappeared for several days: one would be lucky if they would see their family member’s body; others are buried in unmarked graves and would be discovered several years after. This phenomenon continued even up to the day in some parts of Samar.

Re-orienting a local by a local

My very first job after college was for the research arm of my Alma Mater. I was able to visit several parts the region documenting extant traditional practices, poetry, music, food literature and other local lore. Because of this job, I was able to meet people from all walks of life. I did on-site interviews and documentation, which require me to experience the local life. It was not strange for me because their practices were similar to my own. I was a local studying the local.

Of the many places that I went to Calbiga in Western Samar and Catubig in Northern Samar were two of the most memorable. These towns were two of the seedbed of insurgencies during the height of NPA revolt. My teammates and I had to go through different security checks before we could go to the research sites: it was necessary so that we would not be mistaken as sympathizers of the rebel group. In one instance, the Barangay Secretary did not entertain us even if we presented a letter from the town Mayor that we were researchers. The villagers were alarmed upon seeing our huge backpacks because they thought those were firearms. Thankfully, the Barangay Chairman arrived and explained the purpose of our visit to the villagers so we proceeded with our interviews. In another instance, our baggage was secretly checked by the military while we were out doing our interviews.

Desaparecidos

Mana Torya along with her husband was one of my respondents in Barangay Pedro Rebadulla, Catubig Northern Samar. The village is located a whole day hike on foot away from the town proper that even the town Mayor admits that he have not been to the place ever since. The Barangay Secretary who happens to be at the town when we were asking for potential research sites at the Municipal Planning and Development Council Office accompanied us. One of our criteria of selecting a research site was its being “untouched” by modern influences so we would be able to document their traditional practices.

Mana Torya was 75 years old while her husband was about a year older during the interview in their house. Their house was situated on a hill under the canopy of a giant pili nut and surrounded by coconut trees. She had this characteristic gait and quick countenance that is surprising with her age. She had a wealth of information about local custom and music. Once we started the interview, she talked endlessly and was very vocal about her appreciation of our visit. To this day, her alto singing voice still ring on my head while she sing of folk songs about life in the barrio, flirting lasses and even the joys of farming. Her husband was quite during the interview except when he would supply the needed information that Mana Torya forgets. Both Mana Torya and her husband have lucid memories so it was a joy to have them as respondents. After the formal interview, the couple’s grandchild, a teenage boy who became their companion since the mother left with another man, served us with boiled cassava and young corn. I asked for the father. Mana Torya’s cheerful face abruptly changed with the question.

The father was this eldest son who married a local lass and settled in the barrio after the wedding. They had two boys who helped them tend their farm planted among others with different varieties of bananas, yam, cassava and other vegetables. It was the height of the insurgency and the military would suspect anybody with stained shirts as members of the NPA. He was harvesting coconuts when the military men forcibly took him for questioning at the camp. His captors force him to admit that he worked as spy for the rebel group. Since then, he disappeared without a trace. Several others who were suspected to be members of the NPA were forcibly taken from their families and disappeared. The villagers abandoned their farms and homes and resettled in a barangay by the river, just across the town proper where they thought they were safer. The place became a virtual ghost town with only the spirits of God knows whom, roaming the dark streets.

The same thing happened in Barangay Manuhang in Calbiga. The barangay is located about 12 kilometers away from the end of the passable part of the dirt road leading to the famous Calbiga Caves. The main attraction of this cave is its cathedral-like vastness and the presence of rare species of fish living in the underground rivers. The barangay is the main source of giant yams used in the making of a popular delicacy called binagol.

Barangay Manuhang was abandoned for several years when the military occupied the village to put up a military post. Because the villagers feared for their lives during the frequent crossfire, they relocated near the town and just returned recently to tend their farms. The military camp was still there during our visit but the soldiers were already preparing to leave. They were supposed to be sent to Mindanao for the government’s all-out war against the Abu Sayaff, a separatist Muslim group.

The locals sympathized with the rebels

Because of the military operations that spared no one, several other villages were abandoned. The locals became sympathizers of the NPA and some of them took to the mountains to fight alongside the comrades they formerly feared. Some of those who disappeared became members of the rebel group. Some were able to return to their families, a few others were not as lucky.

New Hope

At the time of our visit, these villages were just restoring whatever life they could in these far-flung areas. Once they start trusting us, they started to open up their homes to us, told us their simple desires such as the dreams they want for their children and the hope that one day, their barangays would be blessed with a complete elementary school so their children wont have to go to the town several kilometers away to complete their primary education. Both these barangays have only two classrooms and one teacher who handle two grade levels simultaneously. The next grade level is offered at interval years so they have to go to the town to complete it or wait for another year when the school offers the next grade level.

In spite of the rich natural resources that Samar has, it is still among the regions that are considered depressed by economic standard. One admirable trait that these people have is their resilience in the face of adversities.

And they vowed to make a better life especially for their children.