Trifter

As the ferry draws ever closer to the tiny island of Ko Samet, I feel nervous anticipation start to build inside me. Will I finally find the idyllic, underdeveloped tropical island friends have promised, or will it be simply another concrete and neon-covered abomination like so many other areas of long-lost beauty?

I arrive at the shore and am quickly bustled into a songthew, which whisks me through the checkpoint and along a dusty, winding round to my guesthouse. So far, so good.

I check into a charmingly basic wooden hut and start to explore. To my delight, I discover that I have finally found the perfect beach retreat; pure white sands and inviting warm sea, small beach shacks and bars, with restaurants offering a mouth-watering selection of dishes.

And not a single neon light to be seen. The roads between beaches are narrow and sandy, dimly lit and overgrown. Now this is my idea of paradise.

In the evening, I sit on the beach enjoying barbecued fresh fish as the sun sets. There is a spectacular fire show once it is dark, which can be seen whilst sitting on the sand sipping cocktails.

I am up bright and early the next day and catch a songthew to Ao Kui Na Noi beach to watch the sunrise. There is hardly anyone around at this time of day, and I get the feeling of having the island almost to myself as the dull-hued morning is slowly painted with colours.

The island of Ko Samet is situated in Rayong Province, to the east of Thailand. The island boasts 14 white sand beaches – said to be some of the most beautiful in Asia – surrounded by coral reefs. Ko Samet is so celebrated for its beauty that it joined nine other small islands in 1981 to form a national marine park.

The island’s natural beauty is well known to Thai people, and inspired Sunthorn Phu, one of the country’s greatest poets, to write his epic poem Phra Aphai Mani. The poem, which is very popular even today, more than a hundred years after its creation, tells the tale of a mermaid who rescues a prince from an underwater dungeon and takes him to Ko Samet to live peacefully.

Later that day I embark on a boat trip in order to take in the full beauty of the island. There are almost a dozen Westerners on the trip, and there is more than enough room for everyone on the large motorboat.

A cheerful-looking Thai man steers the boat, while another points out areas of beauty and tells us something about them. We take off from Hat Sai Kaew (Diamond Beach), which our guide tells us is the island’s longest beach at ½ a mile and this is also the sparkling stretch of sand is also the most popular.

Just to the south, we approach Hin Khok Beach, which has an elegant statue of a mermaid sitting on a rock in tribute to Sunthorn Phu’s poem.

After about 30 minutes we approach the deserted Ao Phut Sa Beach and the boat driver stops so that we can snorkel. I quickly don my mask and flippers and slip into the water.

As soon as I pit my head beneath the surface I realise that I am surrounded by hundreds of stunningly beautiful fish. Greens, blues, reds and golden stripes glimmer and flash as the fish swim to gobble the bread that I hold in my outstretched hand.

All too soon we are told that it is time to get back in the boat and are taken to a floating restaurant, where we are treated to a light lunch. After lunch there is some time for swimming or sunbathing, and then we are whisked away in the boat once more and taken to a fish farm.

We arrive back on Ko Samet just as the sun is setting. This time, I choose a restaurant which is showing a Western movie in the background and dine on a spicy Thai curry.

Later that night there is a vibrant half moon party on Hat Sai Kaew. I join the fun and dance on the sand to the fast-paced music as all around me people wobble along the shore carrying sand buckets full of SangSom whiskey mixed with Red Bull and coke.

I rise late the next day, head and muscles aching from a night of overindulgence. The only solution is to spend the day pampering myself and I head to the Sea Breeze restaurant on Ao Pay which offers yoga, massage and great food. And still not a neon light in sight.

Information

The best time to visit Ko Samet is during the week as it can get pretty crowded on weekends, although it is still not as busy as some other popular islands.

To reach Ko Samet, you must first travel to the sleepy seaside town of Ban Phe. 1st class buses run every 30 minutes from Ekamai, Bangkok’s Eastern bus terminal. The journey takes a little over 3 hours and costs just under 300 baht. You can catch a ferry from Ban Phe. The ferry leaves every half an hour or so from 6:00 to 17:00. The large public boat costs 30 baht and takes 30-40 minutes.

Once on the island, you will also have to pay a 400 baht national park fee.

Where to Stay

There is plenty of accommodation to choose from, ranging from basic wooden huts to exclusive sea view air-conditioned bungalows.

One of my favourite places to stay is Naga Bungalows, where you can choose between a wooden hut with an outside toilet for 300 baht or a more comfortable room with a private bathroom for about 400 baht. Located at Ao Hin Khok, there is a pool table, internet access, post office and a good restaurant.

Tel: 038 644035

If Naga Bungalows is full, Tok’s Little Hut is located next door and offers similar facilities and prices. The beach bar opposite is also a great place to drink in the evening.

Tel: 038 644072-3

Still very good value, the bungalows at Tubtim Resort and are comfortable with wide porches and sea views. The resort has its own beachside restaurant so you can soak up the sun while you enjoy tasty Thai food. Prices vary from 1,000-2,000 baht.

Tel: 038 644025-7 www.tubtimresort.com

For a taste of luxury, check into Tonsak Resort on Haad Sai Kaew. These striking beachside bungalows are uniquely decorated in a cowboy theme. As well as a comfortable room and warm welcome, guests can enjoy cocktails at the bar and international cuisine. Prices range from 2,200-5,000 baht according to the view.

Tel: 038 644314 or 081 7811425 www.tonsak.com

If you are planning the beach holiday of a lifetime, Sai Kaew Beach Resort is an absolute must. These modern bungalows are stylishly decorated and have all the mod cons including satellite TV, mini bar, air-con and a large balcony. The resort offers a private pool, cocktail bar and good restaurants.

Tel: 038 644193 or 081 8748087 www.samedresorts.com