Trifter

Though I’ve been to Mexico City many times, all of my past visits have been about “getting” someplace: getting to the pyramids, getting to the Zocalo, getting to the museums, getting to that restaurant where we had reservations. While my family darted from one popular destination to another, we never stopped to appreciate what we were seeing along the way. My memories of our journeys were of particular points of interest and specific moments of time, but I still didn’t feel as if I understood Mexico City’s character. In seeking out a few well-known sights, my family had failed to grasp the city as a whole.

All of this changed, however, when I returned last year to this giant metropolis with my husband and two of our friends, none of whom had ever been there before. Through their eyes as first-timers, I grew to appreciate the sights, sounds, smells and colors of a diverse city that’s richly steeped in history and culture, and is rapidly growing — and realized that even with all the attractions there, Mexico City itself is a work of art worth savoring.

Walk the streets in any neighborhood from funky Roma (where we stayed) to upscale Coyoacan to the Historical District, and you’re surrounded by every hue imaginable. Buildings of azure, pink, lavender and yellow stand before you like walls of a rainbow canyon, while lush, palm trees sway over verdant parks. Street vendors crowd into every inch of pavement, lining up their ceramics, sculptures, jewelry and food in such precise arrangements that the stands form a perfectly-woven tapestry. Right across from our hotel, the Quality Inn Ciudad de Mexico Roma, was a small, local market; from our terrace we watched the vendors set up their stalls, looking as if they were all part of a carefully choreographed dance.

Stroll among these markets and you’ll continue to witness art in motion. Rival salesmen from CD stands shout above each other, beckoning potential buyers to them in a cacophonous duet. A butcher deftly prepares a chicken, his rhythmic, “Chop, chop, chop,” providing the beat against which you walk. On nearly every street corner is a handmade taco stand, where women swiftly mold blue corn into tortillas the same way a potter shapes clay into a vase. And the smells — oh, the inviting aromas which emerged from these stalls! The scent of fresh peppers, garlic, cheese and meat nearly sent us into a frenzy of hunger.

What also took us by surprise was how Mexico City literally echoes with music. Take public transportation and guitar players will suddenly stand up, serenading you with an impromptu concert. On one of our lengthier subway trips, we were treated to the sounds of several spirited singers, as well as a violonist and a trumpet player. Meanwhile, radios blare from shops and people dance as they go about their daily errands. In the “Floating Gardens,” Xochimilco, mariachis will float their boats up to yours in the canals, inviting you to join in their party.

At night, the city becomes even more alive. As the sun sets, the cars zoom by, their headlights illuminating the streets in a laser show. The street chefs dash about chattering over the sizzle of their meats as they prepare for the evening rush. Hungry, tired locals cram into bars, celebrating the end of their work day with raucous laughter. All of these sights and sounds come together like an orchestra.

Mexico City is a wild, lively place with something unexpected around every corner. What was most surprising to me, however, was how much I’d been missing.