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The Fantastic Floating Islands of Titicaca

by R J Evans on 25/01/09 at 1:08 am

The Uros people of Lake Titicaca have a unique way of life – they build their own islands, float them on the lake and then proceed to live on them. Here is a glimpse of their world, where their homemade “islands” are truly “in the stream”.



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Floating islands?  It may sound like something out of a Jonathan Swift novel, but to the Uros people it is a fact of every day life.  This small tribe of South American indigenous retain a great deal of a culture that goes back millennia and one whose unique domestic arrangements stem from that age old fear – the dread of suppression by other, stronger and more populous peoples.

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Lake Titicaca itself affords a deal of protection.  Isolated and over three thousand meters above sea level, the lake itself offers – simply by its relative isolation (even in modern day Peru) – some protection from the unwanted attentions of others.  However, at some point before recorded history a member of the Uros had the bright idea to do something extraordinary with the reeds that grow prolifically along the banks of the lake – the largest in South America (by volume).

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The reeds themselves are malleable enough to dry out, bundle and shape in to extraordinary boats which float quite nicely.  With a leap of the imagination, the original Uros saw the possibility for a system of domiciles which, in case of emergency, could be moved away from the mainland.  Although they only number in the low thousands, it is thought that around five hundred of the Uros still choose to live in this ancient manner – though with some concessions to the modern world!

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The tortora reed islands are meticulously created by hand and are a continually evolving habitat for the Uros.  Although the reed used for the island is not as painstakingly ‘woven’ as that used for their boats, the construction of the islands represents an enormous workload for the people of the tribe.  The islands themselves must be several meters thick in order to support the homes and associated buildings of the Uros.

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The tortora has interweaving roots which create a dense layer (up to two meters thick) on top of which the islands themselves develop.  Anchorage is provided by drilling large logs through the island to the base of the lake.  Ropes are then attached to these logs to give the islands stability.  Even so, the reeds constantly rot away and the islanders must replace them constantly.  Each island will go through this process at least four times a year – more when the rains come.  However, there is reward for all of this hard work as each island has a lifespan of around thirty years.

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Traditionally there are around forty small islands on the lake with one – the largest – being the focal point of the community.  The reed, as well as being – quite literally – the foundation of the community, is important to the Uros’ economy and well being.  Iodine is produced from the base of the reed and it is also used for general medicinal purposes.  The reeds are wrapped around parts of the body that are hurting and, purportedly – cure it of its aches and pains!  The flower of the reed is also used to brew up a cuppa!

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Like many unique cultures around the world, that of the Uros is under threat from assimilation.  Most of the Uros speak Aymara – which is the language of a larger local tribe that is resolutely mainland.  It is thought that they lost their own language around five hundred years ago.  Whether the language was naturally lost or Aymara was forced upon the Uros is not known, but the relatively recent arrival of Europeans has been the greatest threat to their cultural identity – greater than that of the Inca Empire – to which the Uros had to pay taxes and give up many of their own people as slaves.

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Although numerically a small people, the Uros seem to have adopted the aspects of European society which suits them.  Many of them use solar panels on their reed homes to run television sets and other electronic appliances.  The largest of the islands has a radio station which broadcasts for several hours each day and the concept of group education for the children in the form of two schools has also been adopted.  However, great care is taken to preserve the culture of the Uros, with one of the schools given over entirely to traditional learning.  A gas run generator used to give light at night but this has been eschewed because of its prohibitive expense.  Instead, candles and flash lights are now used.

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There are not, however, any modern cookers on the island so the question naturally arises of how the Uros cook without setting the reeds on fire and destroying their home!  What they do is to create a pile of stones high enough to create a fire on top without the heat being strong enough to start an inflagration. 

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Another question which is also always asked is how do the Uros ensure that their island remain sanitary, with several hundred people having to answer the call of nature.  They do this by creating very small island near the larger ones which are used only for this very specific purpose!  The waste is absorbed by the tortora reeds and helps towards the next healthy crop!

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In order to sustain their meager economy the Uros also must accommodate the large amounts of curious tourists who are drawn to these forty or so islands to observe this unique way of life.  Many Uros family have a room in their home which is dedicated to tourist usage and guests are welcome to stay overnight.  Few concessions are made to the tourists in terms of what might be called mod-cons but there is a traditional dance every night, when the tourists are encouraged to dress up in traditional Uros dress and join in.  One suspects that the Uros may well look upon this is a quietly done practical joke on their westernized visitors!

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It can only be hoped that this small, unique and vibrant culture can survive the demands placed upon it by external forces.  Certainly it would be a shame if the world was to lose yet another intriguing and vital, if tiny, aspect of humanity to the ogre of global homogenization.

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90 Comments

RJ Chamberlain

Jan 25th, 2009

Really fascinating stuff R J. Well researched and well written as always.

RJ

denus

Jan 25th, 2009

really interesting article, had my eyes glued, wwell done!

cheers,

denus

woody15

Jan 25th, 2009

Fascinating. Don’t know how i would cope, but they manage too. Nice pictures to go with it aswell.

Christine Ramsay

Jan 25th, 2009

That is amazing! I wonder if the islands are affected by the movementof the water during bad weather. A terrific article.

Christine

Glynis Smy

Jan 25th, 2009

What an amazing insight to the world of the Uros. I loved this article, it was so informative and colourful! I had never heard of them,thanks for teaching me something new today.

Louie Jerome

Jan 25th, 2009

An excellent article with lots of information and written in an entertaining style as usual.

Hein Marais

Jan 25th, 2009

Looks like an extraordinary place.

Anne Lyken Garner

Jan 25th, 2009

Wow! an island just for toilet use. That should be fun. I learned a lot of things I did not know from this article. A great piece, with beautiful pictures.

Emma Turton

Jan 25th, 2009

A fascinating article, and really great pictures.

nutuba

Jan 25th, 2009

Absolutely fascinating! This is a wonderfully written article loaded with interesting information. Well done!

Sotiris

Jan 25th, 2009

Wow! Amazing!

Bren Parks

Jan 25th, 2009

Great read! I loved the pics, too…

ML Sheldon

Jan 25th, 2009

Very interesting stuff and well presented. Good article!

preperowlifick

Jan 25th, 2009

A fascinating topic. I heard the name Lake Titicaca once on a tv show and thought it was a made up name. Glad I came across this lovely living situation they have. (no cable though I suppose, smile)

Lauren Axelrod

Jan 25th, 2009

Excellent and thorough piece RJ. I can’t believe they rent out rooms to tourists in their own homes. Very interesting and hospitable!

Juancav

Jan 25th, 2009

An informative and unique article,excellent.

BC Doan

Jan 25th, 2009

What an incredible world, and educational article!

wildcardWI

Jan 25th, 2009

very interesting!

Chris Stonecipher

Jan 25th, 2009

Fascinating stuff. Well researched. I dugg this one and shared.

James DeVere

Jan 25th, 2009

I did see a documentary about them – lets hope they are less indigent these days. Nice write . j

Gon pincha

Jan 25th, 2009

Wow. That is amazing!
Great article :)

Brian Daniel Stankich

Jan 25th, 2009

nice line…call of nature – hey a fantastic picture of these marvelous people Brian

Maria Blazz

Jan 25th, 2009

Your article was entertaining and well writen as usual, but I had expected you were more specific about the location of this place (you just mention Peru incidentally). Lake Titicaca is surrounded by two different countries and there are several islands in the region.

Tel Asiado

Jan 25th, 2009

Wow! This is terrific! Great info and images. Where exactly is this found?
Thanks.

Tel

Joanna Bentom

Jan 26th, 2009

What a wonderful article. It brought a smile to my face this morning. An idylic way of life, one to admire and envy, I hope no-one disturbs them. Beautiful photographs. I shall certainly be recommending a peek to my friends and family.

Debra.

Jan 26th, 2009

what an amazing and fantastic article and place! A joy to read!

God bless.

Jackie118

Jan 26th, 2009

Fascinating! Wouldn’t do for me I’m afraid – despite living in the midst of the wetlands of the Norfolk Broads (UK), I’m terrified of water!!

dawn xoc

Jan 26th, 2009

Wow! It just show that you can learn something new everyday. Informative and well written

Patrick Bernauw

Jan 26th, 2009

Very entertaining & interesting!

dconst

Jan 26th, 2009

The Aztecs used a similar method to build the city of Tenochtitlan on top of lake Texcoco which is now Mexico city

Filipino

Jan 26th, 2009

Wow…nice article and superb photos. forwarded this to family and friends. btw, what was the kind of camera used? thanks

GoldenRetrieval

Jan 26th, 2009

Really good photography, and the like the subject, not a group anyone gets to see much of very often. If they are trying to boost tourism, they better watch out. It is pretty cold that high up though, didn’t see any diving boards!

corey

Jan 26th, 2009

just got back from here and honestly say this is a must-see in south america and certainly peru… i have many excellent photos from my trip there… check coreybyrnes.com – they should be up soon…

Katien

Jan 26th, 2009

Very interesting and informative. I wonder how they stop toddlers falling into the lake.

thestickman

Jan 26th, 2009

Very neat! I like those reed boats. SU

Kim

Jan 26th, 2009

Interesting article, but the excessive amount of exclamation marks was annoying

Seperate Island

Jan 26th, 2009

What happens if the spicy gumbo you ate for dinner won’t wait until you can boat over to the crapper?

joe

Jan 26th, 2009

Can’t help it…
Titi caca
Say it. It’s catchy.

Lost in Arizona

Jan 26th, 2009

As immature as I am, still at 32, just saying Titicaca still makes me snicker..lol! But the article is presented very well, and the pictures are stunning. Often times I wonder if that would be the life, living a quiet, almost excluded life (with the exception of invasive tourists), rather than living in a heavily polluted, an materialistic society. Hmmm… now you’ve got me pondering..

Luis

Jan 26th, 2009

This islands can be seen also on the Bolivian side of the lake

traveling circus

Jan 26th, 2009

Great article! I first read about Lake Titicaca’s islands here: http://www.moon.com/destinations/south-america/peru/lake-titicaca-and-canyon-country/lake-titicaca, the author gives you information on arranging excursions or homestays on teh islands. But your article (and photos, WOW) make me feel like I’ve already been there!

Thanks!

Lauren

Jan 26th, 2009

I just visited Lake Titicaca, it was AMAZING and I would recommend the trip to everyone! My favorite part is that they people saw the islands in half when a husband and wife want to “divorce.” They also use the reeds as toothbrushes!

Dave

Jan 26th, 2009

Cool stuff!

In your first paragraph though, I think you mean “indigenous people” rather than “indigents.”

C Jordan

Jan 26th, 2009

As ever, an interesting article RJ

Polly

Jan 26th, 2009

I can hardly wait till my son can see this! Very, very fascinating!

Selfish Gene

Jan 26th, 2009

Lame. Was expecting something like the Palms in Dubai.

eddiego65

Jan 26th, 2009

Stunningly beautiful place. Great article!

Pooran

Jan 27th, 2009

pretty impressive.. floating on river, solar panels for power, TV.. awesome :)

Stev Joe

Jan 27th, 2009

Excellent article.

Rask Balavoine

Jan 27th, 2009

Dazzling stuff JR, and interestingly done. Also took me back to school days when we discovered this strangely named lake and delighted in being able to say “Titi” with impunity in the hearing of a teacher!

Neverty Agisti

Jan 27th, 2009

Jamalakallaah!

Michele Cameron Drew

Jan 27th, 2009

This is both interesting and amazing. Perhaps society as a whole should take a lesson from these natives. This type of ingenuity could solve some of the world’s real estate problems. Great article, RJ!

Pete Macinta

Jan 27th, 2009

Superb article, and amazing information. Thanks R. J.!

God bless,
Pete

Fer

Jan 27th, 2009

I spend a couple of days with them, in the floating island of Hachatata, with Elmer and Olga. Was one of my most impresive experiences of muy life.

There are quite a lot of tourism, but during 45 minutes. The time to go down of the boat, to by some things and go back to the boat. The rest of the time, I went fishing with them, cooking, playing volley ball (at about 11.000 feet over sea level). Unforgetable.

John McDonnell

Jan 27th, 2009

Great story, RJ! It’s amazing how these people have adapted to their environment, and how they’ve preserved their culture by creating these islands to protect them from invaders. The pictures are amazing also. Great work!

Jessica Rowe

Jan 27th, 2009

Great Read and fantastic pictures.

trishia

Jan 27th, 2009

I’ve learned quite a bit from this article.The pictures are as great as the information. Thanks for sharing.

David G Paul

Jan 27th, 2009

I went there last year and the natives demonstrated their way of life and how they make and maintain the islands – it was really interesting.

Anyone who goes there I recommend also visiting some of the “proper” islands on Lake Titicaca too as the people there live differently too.

Geri Ohara

Jan 27th, 2009

Brilliant article RJ thanks

Mark Gordon Brown

Jan 27th, 2009

Great info and wonderful accompanyment of photos.. also I agree with Lost in Arizonas earlier comment…”Titicaca”.

Angie0000023

Jan 27th, 2009

wow thats gorgeous… this was a great article! :D

John Hart

Jan 27th, 2009

thats amazing! i didnt even know they existed. if i could weave, id definately live on my own island… but i guess id have to find a lake first… awsome article!

Richard Sharp

Jan 28th, 2009

was a pretty amazing story

Nikita Kondraskov

Jan 28th, 2009

A house near the lake might be as good as a house in the lake. So what is the benefit for them to live on water. Do they fear big animals or what ?

Lorna Dykstra

Jan 28th, 2009

Very interesting and well researched. I had never heard of the Uros before.

kenan ketcham

Jan 28th, 2009

Excellent article on the Uros people.
I would love to visit them some day.

sandie

Jan 28th, 2009

Avery interesting article! Amazing images. too!

Sam Down

Jan 28th, 2009

Excellent article, well presented and great pictures! Very interesting to read about the Uros for the first time.

Moron Savant

Jan 28th, 2009

this is of interest to me, sir RJ! am teaching cultural anthropology…

GrannaSue

Jan 28th, 2009

Wow’ what a wonderful article and so well written too!
I feel like I have just been there, your discriptions
of the islands and its people are really great!

Yovita Siswati

Jan 29th, 2009

very brilliant article, give me a great lesson about other’s culture.

Jax Appleby

Jan 29th, 2009

Hi RJ,

What a marvelous article! It is interesting, well written, and the pictures add another dimension to the great writing. I feel that this is one of the better articles on Triond.

Thank you for posting it, Jax

rs master

Jan 29th, 2009

really coooooollll!!!

mastro Jano

Jan 30th, 2009

Mirinda divenemo. Vivu, kiel vi povas!

top victor

Jan 30th, 2009

I love it, this is life–peaceful and natural.

NoraNick

Jan 30th, 2009

What do they do with their rubbage?

Vovatar

Jan 31st, 2009

interesting….

TommyP

Jan 31st, 2009

Very cool!!! Great piece!!

Parul

Jan 31st, 2009

very nice article.

Excommunicada Illustrada

Jan 31st, 2009

I love the place. I love the natives… But, I’ve never been there. But, I love the photos…. Nice Article!!!

Eliza Worner

Jan 31st, 2009

Peru is such an interesting country with so many fascinating cultures both past and present, it would be such a shame if the Uros were to lose their way of life. How amazing that they incorporate solar power into their homes.

There are floating villages in Halong Bay, Vietnam that I guess have a similar culture of shared education as well as a long history of isolation and repression from dominant mainland cultures. When I was visiting Vietnam I thought it would be quite nice to float away from the crazy world I live in.

Melody Arcamo Lagrimas

Feb 1st, 2009

I thinks it is a wonderful place to visit. Thanks for taking us there.

Stacey T Pollock

Feb 2nd, 2009

Wow they are amazing photo’s to see!

Rana Sinha

Feb 2nd, 2009

It’s a fantastic place to visit. Though it was a bit chilly when I was there, the atmosphere was great. Wonderful and friendly people.

Anne

Feb 3rd, 2009

Really amazing and a good lesson to all as to how innovative and creative people can be. I wonder if these reeds would make comfortable hammocks?

CHAN LEE PENG

Feb 3rd, 2009

I never knew about this island. Great find, RJ!

Bren Parks

Feb 4th, 2009

wow, that is so awesome!

Fornis

Feb 10th, 2009

These really enjoyable to live in those huts. They look so nice in water. You have chosen very nice pictures for this article.

Kathleen Cook Feb 27 2009

Feb 27th, 2009

Have just visited these incredible people and been astounded at their lifestyle. Their weaving and handicrafts are works of art. Tourism is important to them and it appears that it is being handled carefully.There are health problems caused by lack of exercise and damp conditions but I was told that this is being monitored. Walking about is like taking a stroll on a trampoline.

ALBERTO CASTELLANOS

Apr 14th, 2009

iT’S CONVENIENT TO POINT OUT THAT THE UROS AND THE TOTOTA ISLANDS
ARE LOCATED IN BOLIVIA AND PERU ALONG THE TITICACA LAKE.

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