Crime

Crime is a major issue in Puerto Rico, especially in some of the more dangerous areas of the capital city, San Juan. Bad neighborhoods to avoid include La Perla, Santurce, and Ponce. Pickpockets and armed robbers are active in these zones. Tourists and locals who appear to have money on them are primary targets. Drug dealers and violent gangs also roam the streets in these areas, especially after dark. Always keep a close eye on your personal belongings and travel in groups rather than alone. Avoid carrying anything of value with you whenever possible.

Traffic Accidents

Traffic in Puerto Rico can be quite hectic. The streets of San Juan are crowded with crazed drivers. Most people get around in taxis and buses. Drivers often ignore stop signs, lane restrictions and traffic lights. Aggressive driving leads to many accidents and a fatalities. Be especially careful crossing the street in San Juan. Take only taxis and buses that are registered with the state; they should have government-approved stickers and documentation.

Hurricanes

The best time to visit Puerto Rico is between December and April. Hurricanes have wreaked havoc on Puerto Rico in the past, causing major damage to property and taking lives. The Caribbean hurricane season lasts from June to November. Avoid the months of September and October in particular. The last major storm to tear apart Puerto Rico was Hurricane Georges back in 1998. It is hard to predict the severity of tropical storms in advance each year, so you can never be sure when the next big hurricane will strike.

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The Peruvian Indians assembled the ship under the instruction of a Scottish engineer and it was finally put into service in 1874 as a ferry boat, crossing from Puno in Peru to La Paz in Bolivia, which was a 50 miles trip. 

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It is now used as a floating warehouse by the Peruvian navy. It was replaced by the Ollanta which was built in Hull, England in 1931, dismantled for transportation and then reassembled at the lake.

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Titicaca is the largest lake in South America at 118 miles, or 190 kilometres long and it covers an area of 9065 square kilometres, or three thousand five hundred square miles. The maximum depth is 275 metres, or nine hundred and three feet.  Lake Maracaibo in Venezuela is much larger that Titicaca but it is not strictly speaking a lake, but just an almost land-locked bay of the Caribbean Sea.  

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It is fed by melt water from glaciers and rainfall, and has five main river systems which drain into it; the largest by volume of water is the River Ramis. There are also another forty one streams running down into Titiaca.

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The lake itself has forty one islands, some of which are inhabited.  It also has a group of around forty artificial islands made from floating reeds and inhabited by people known as the Uros. Their original purpose was a defensive one so that if the people were threatened, they could easily move their island elsewhere.

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The name of the lake, Titicaca, translates as ‘Rock Puma’ and is thought to refer to its shapes. From the air it looks just like a puma chasing a small animal which some say is a rabbit.

“You WEREN’T wasted! My husband scolded.  “You (expletive) fainted!”

Getting the Party Started

It was New Year’s Eve day.  12 hours to go before the party started in downtown Santiago, Chile.  We have been in the country for almost one hour and our hotel room for 10 minutes.  It was a trip of a lifetime and I got things started on a low, but ramming my bum knee on a desk and passing out cold.  James always said I know how to kick things off.  Here we are,  in a foreign city, I am the one in the couple that can speak the language and truly we have no sense of where we are since our short arrival.  I don’t blame him for being upset and ultimately pissed that I am laid out unresponsive on the hotel floor.

I am relieved (as his he) that I came too quickly.  It was obvious that in my unconscious state, I was thinking of the evening and the party ahead.  Now the pressure is on to convince him that I really am fine and we can start our vacation.

“I am fine,” I plea “and I am so, so, sorry.”  We have been traveling for 20 hours straight, surely suffer from a bit of dehydration and we’re both hungry.  I convince him I am back to my normal self and we should good find some lunch.  Being the constant cheerleader and cruise director, this seems to convince James that I will not pass out again and now, we can start our vacation.

Seeing a Bit of Santiago

Santiago houses a terrific and active pedestrian mall that travels for about a mile.  The street is lined with retail and few push cart vendors selling beverages and snacks.  We make our way to the produce/food market and can’t help but notice the huge sale of party hats and noise makers.  Our trip to Chile was to fly-fish, bird watch and mountain climb.  Santiago was a stop over for one evening as we planned on going south to Patagonia.  We were not aware of Santiago’s reputation for a fantastic New Year’s Eve Party.  The prolific sale of hats and party supplies was our first indication that this town really lived it up on this evening.

The market is a must do in this town.  It welcomed us with open arms and endless options of fish, produce, baked goods and snacks.  Rows and rows of ice showcasing the prizes of the sea.  The center of the market houses a couple restaurants/bistros that serve the freshest offerings from the neighboring vendors.  We had a nourishing lunch of grilled sausage, muscles, warm bread and our first local beers, Escudo, which we were never short on the rest of the trip.  As we watched the merchants around us, we also saw the merchants sell crates of champagne…Everyone in the market had at least two bottles of bubbly.  This only surprises us because sure, we see champagne enjoyed during new years eve, but not at this volume.

Our typical dinning conversation includes planning our next meal.  Since it is a well exercised holiday in Chile dinner reservations are a must.  We managed to squeeze a seating in at the hotel to sample our first South American dinner.  The tables were decorated with party hats and noise makers.  Again, we certainly have seen such party swag, but never used them.  The patrons were dressed fine and even in their dapper threads, were sporting the paper party hats.  Wanting to be part of the crowd, we proudly put on our hats and enjoyed our fine cuts of beef and washed it down with a pisco sour.  Pisco is a Chilean liquor that mixes well with a sweet and sour mixer and an egg white.  Not terribly potent, but addictively delicious.  After this fine meal we headed to the town center about 11:00 PM.

Party in the Plaza

The street is buzzing.  Music in all directions, champagne bottles popping every 30 seconds.  We walked to towards the crowd that was facing a giant state with super sized projection screens.  Salsa dancers, singers, bands. Pure entertainment.  When I think of Urban street parties, I get nervous.  I would never think of it as a family event.  In Santiago, everyone is with their family.  Every other shoulder has a child sitting atop for a better view of the action.   Balloons, more party hats, and beer vendors abound.

We found a place to loiter.  We look North American, mostly due to our coloring and were not advertising with Nike shoes. Plus, we just came down during our winter and were pasty white.  We were constantly approached by neighboring bystanders asking us about us.  Where we were from?  What our plans were?  How did we like Chile?  There was an overwhelming sense of welcoming and national pride.  It was such a lively and friendly scene.  I think back to watching the fire works in Detroit and more concerned about getting tangled in a nearby brawl than ever considering chatting it up with the stranger next to me.  The bottles of champagne were passed around and everyone’s cup was full.  The music was loud and you had to be lame to not move to it.  It was vibrant, safe, and a really a great party.

Almost Midnight

The hour was coming to a close and the count down began.  As the new year arrived the expected cheers and noise started as every child let a balloon go.  The sky was filled.  This was followed by hugs, kisses and pictures. Every one hugged and kissed…we were certainly included.  We were asked to take pictures of others, than asked to join them in their family photo.  They asked us where are children were for our picture.  When we admitted that we were a dog family only, 3 babies came pushed our way, “Here hold mine for your picture!” 

Then the fire works.  It would be hard to find a longer fireworks display than this one.  The Beijing Olympics might be a runner up.  A pure 30-45 minutes of tantalizing fire visuals keep our attention as we finished off the thousands of bottles of champagne bottles sold.

Country with Open Arms

Hugging strangers, holding their children, and feeling completly comfortable in a crowded scene was just a small taste of this welcoming nation.  Starting a trip with such a festive new year’s eve party is a great way to kick of your Chile vacation.

I’m telling you this so that you can see that yes, it can be done. You can actually start off with very little resources, and by working hard. Mexico is in many respects still the land of opportunity, but you have to know your way around.

If you are a person approaching retirement age and are looking for a place outside the US to live so that your pension would give you more purchasing power, I wouldn’t recommend Mexico per se. Yes, the, the cost of living is lower in Mexico, but not that much lower that it would justify leaving the US. Unless you want to while away your time on a beach in the south of Mexico, sleeping in a hammock, enjoying the sun and the sea. But that’s only enjoyable for so long, in fact, it wears off pretty soon.

But if you’re a writer, let’s say, or you are developing an online presence in order to make some profit through your online businesses, then moving to the south of Mexico would definitely cut down on your overhead. You can find simple, clean housing maybe close to the beach. If you can do without cable tv and shopping malls, that would be the right thing to do. Just stay away, or better don’t get even close to holiday resort towns like Acapulco and Cancun, to live there would turn out to be more expensive than anywhere in the US.

There are plenty of undeveloped strips of beach along the west coast, between Acapulco and the Bay of Huatulco, for example. As long as you stay away from the mainstream tourist sections, you should be okay.

I would suggest that you at least try and learn some Spanish. You should manage the basics. You have to be able to go to a grocery store and buy your stuff. Many Mexicans in and around the big holiday destinations speak English, but remember I’m advising against moving to those places. Outside these areas English is not very common, and if you move to a small town or village you won’t find hardly anybody who speaks English. He or she that does will find YOU to practice their English. But you still have to go to the drugstore, pay the electricity bill, hire a taxi, etc.

If you fit the profile of the type of person I am describing here, you’ll find a pretty large expatriate American community in Oaxaca-City, for example. If you are not used to living in a foreign country, and you, at least initially, have problems with the local language, you will find that you soon start yearning for some good old American company. As humans we need to talk to other humans,  like it or not, and there are many people who have returned to their home country because they couldn’t cope with  the loneliness. It’s simply not enough to say ‘Hi’ to a Mexican neighbor every now and again. And if there are two of you it doesn’t really solve the problem, because most likely you’d get on each other’s nerves pretty soon because there is no one else to talk to. So either learn Spanish, get some of your friends to come down with you, or find a place where other Americans live.

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This place is immense.  It is over twelve thousand square kilometers in area, which makes it the largest salt flat in the world.  To give an idea, that is over twenty five times larger than the more famous Bonneville Salt Flats in the United State.  It also has the distinction of being the highest salt flats in the world at three thousand seven hundred meters above sea level.  The mounds in this first picture are not, as you may first suspect, a naturally occurring phenomena.  The hand of man is at work here.

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The slat is literally scraped away from the surface and piled up in the mounds that you can see here by the locals.  Salar de Uyuni is what remains of a prehistoric lake.  All around it there are mountains which means there are no drainage outlets and the salt is left at the old bed of the lake.  After it is scraped up these mounds are then created.  This allows the water to evaporate more quickly and certainly makes the salt easier to transport away from the salt flats. 

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From a distance the salt flats look like a huge white sea.  The tiles on the flats stretch on as if to infinity – and beyond.  This in itself if simply awesome to behold – and there is no hyperbole there at all.  It looks like something out of a science-fiction film – one half expects to see, at any minute, Captain Kirk appear being chased by a couple of Klingons.  When there is rain – as there is occasionally even at this altitude – then something magical happens.  The salt flats become a mirror of the sky.

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The origins of the Uyuni goes back some forty thousand years.  Then it made up part of the huge prehistoric Lake Minchin.  With time the lake dried up.  Two lakes still remain – the Uru Uru and (no sniggering at the back) the Poopó.  Two salt flats were left, the smaller Salar de Coipasa and the Uyuni.  Twelve thousand square kilometers is pretty large by anyone’s standards.

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From a distance it appears like an enormous ocean, still and white.  It is thought that the salt flats contains up to ten billion tons of salt.  Each year around twenty five thousand tons is taken – all of the salt miners belong to a cooperative which shares the profits.  Although the mounds are created in a traditional way, when it comes to transporting it away from Uyuni, more modern technology is used.  You didn’t expect llamas, did you?

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Certainly, the mounds of salt only add on to the unearthly appearance of Uyuni.  Even though it is extremely isolated it, located in the Oruro and Potosi departments in the Southwest of the country, the Bolivians encourage tourism to the area.  As it is near the crest of the Andes it is on the tourist trail and can be reached without too much difficulty for the more adventurous traveler.

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Coincidentally the major minerals to be found in salt are halite and gypsum.  One use of halite is to keep ice off our pathways and roads while gypsum is used as a finish for walls and ceilings – you probably know it as drywall.  There are also considerable stocks of lithium in the salar, which are used in the production of batteries and certain pharmaceuticals.  However, Bolivia as a nation exports none at the moment.  It does not want large multinationals muscling in and is preparing to develop its own strategies to ‘mine’ the lithium.

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Just as you think you have seen it all, something else comes in to view that will astonish you.  You will also get the opportunity to see this amazing ‘tree’ made out of rock.  This peculiar product of millennia of erosion is testimony to the amazing strangeness of our planet when left to its own devices.

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You may not have heard of Uyuni, but our astronauts have.  It is used as a target for calibrating and testing remotes sensing systems on satellites in orbit.  Why?  It is big – very big – and has an incredibly smooth surface which is highly reflective when it is covered in water, making it perfect for that task.

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In terms of a wildlife vacation, it is probably not the best place to visit.  However, on the edges of the salt flats you will find the ubiquitous lama.

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South of Uyuni the two other lakes and the mountains of the Andes dominate the view.  There are three different type of flamingo who visit these lakes and the sight of them flying in is breath-taking.  The flamingos are one of the few large animals that thrive in these areas – and you will see flocks of them on your visit.

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Where to stay though?  It would seem remiss not to take advantage of the hospitality of the local hotel, which is incidentally, completely made of salt.  As for the furniture inside – likewise.

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You can even picnic if you want.  Of course, be prepared for your picnic table to be made of salt too.  Surprise.

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Uyuni also boasts a locomotive graveyard which is full of the rusting shells of trains from the past.  How did they end up here?  Uyuni is an important transport hub in Bolivia with four train lines connecting in the town.  These lines are the Villazon, Potosi, Calama (from Chile) and La Paz.  It must have seemed the logical place to abandon the locomotives which were no longer needed.  It perfectly adds to the strangeness of the place.

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Of course the main reason people come here is to see the spectacular salt flats.  Although the pictures here are amazing, imagine how jaw dropping this place must be with your own eyes.

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Potosi, Cerro Rico Mine and Dollar Signs

Potosi is 13,045 above sea level and is the world’s second highest city, coming behind Wenchuan, China, which is built at a height of 16,730. Potosi is a bleak looking mining city which sits below the Cerro Rico silver mine. The town was founded in 1546 to house workers from the mine and the infrastructure developed from there.

In his book Don Quixote, Cervantes mentions the wealth of Potosi and it has been suggested that the mint mark of Potosi ‘PTSI’ is the origin of the American dollar sign. All four letters when superimposed, give a $ sign.

During the 1600’s the country was under the rule of Spain and there was a labour shortage at the mines. An order was made to allow Potosi to import up to 2000 African slaves per year to work in the mines as there were too few indigenous Indians left.

By 1800 the silver in the mines was very much depleted and mining concentrated on tin and lead.

This is quite a bleak city in comparison with La Paz and Sucre but still has some historical interest.

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Oruro Devil Dances and Silver Mines

Oruro is 12,146 feet above sea level and was founded in 1606. It too is based on silver mining but the mines were soon exhausted and for a few years, La Salvadora tin mine supplied most of the world’s tin until that too ran out.

The city is best known today for its carnival which brings in many tourists and is known as a major folklore event in South America because of its traditional ‘devil dances’.

Image by Phillie Casablanca via Flickr

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Image by NeilsPhotography via Flickr

La Paz Capital of Bolivia

La Paz is built in a kind of bowl below the mountains. These mountains tower around it and the only direction it can grow in is up the slopes.

The city was founded in 1548 by the Spanish Conquistadors on the site of an ancient native settlement. It was not until 1825 that La Paz and the rest of Bolivia broke free from Spanish rule.

La Paz is the world’s highest capital city and it has the highest football ground, golf course, and aircraft landing strip. The city is very close to the ancient site of Tiahuanacu and Lake Titicaca and has many ancient and natural sites of its own. Tiwanaku Square in front of the football stadium and various other market places and squares make the city interesting and intriguing. Carnivals are a feature throughout the year in La Paz.

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Sucre: Fabrics, Architecture and Dinosaur Footprints

Sucre is south east of La Paz and stands at 9,301 feet above sea level against a majestic and beautiful background of mountains. Its beautiful colonial architecture has led to it being listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site. Although the city is still high up, its slightly lower altitude gives it a warmer all year climate than La Paz, Potosi, or Oruro, so it tends to be a more popular base for visitors to Bolivia.

This city too was founded by the Spaniards in 1538 and many of its building go back to the days of the Conquistadors. It too was part of the huge silver mining operations in Bolivia.

Apart from architecture, Sucre has some unique attractions including the ‘Dinosaur Tracks’ where you can actually see preserved dinosaur footprints, a fabulous textile and art museum, and even a miniature Eiffel Tower. Tourism is a thriving industry here and visitors come all year round.

Feeling a bit groggy from travel, or the bottle of vino rojo, ok, maybe the last two cold I drank, I woke to chatter in the hallway of our quaint inn. Three flights and 20 hours later, we are waking up in El Bolson, Argentina, a town surrounded by the Andes Mountains on the cusp of Patagonia.

James despises the bed and breakfast scene. It is the breakfast part he doesn’t like – the forced conversations of small talk when he isn’t quite awake yet. Due to this aversion, I am allowed to choose just one B&B (“two evenings max”) per vacation as a compromise and this was our first night’s stay on the trip. Here we are at the end of the world and I think I hear in accented English through the wall, “There’s another couple from Montana”. I decide not to tell James what I hear because I am sure it will ban me from choosing a B&B ever again. So I stir him awake and we get ready to start our vacation with a hardy Argentine breakfast spread.

We stumbled into the dinning room and I could sense James’ relief that we were the only diners. Gustavo, the friendly inn owner, greeted us with a pot of coffee. Much to my chagrin Gustavo confirmed my keen hearing and said, “We just served breakfast to a couple also from Montana”. Yes, it is a small world, but really, from Montana? We came all this way to “get away” but, sure enough, another couple from our hometown of 35,000, who also love to fly-fish and needed a break from the harsh Montana winter, came to Argentina for a fishing trip. Also like us, they were meeting their guide the next day and wanted a day to get a feel for the Argentine culture and landscape, outside their fishing adventure. A region’s customs and environment can be missed while in a camp or lodge the entire stay. El Bolson provides a great taste for what Argentina can offer. This region is very attractive to fly fisherman because of the pristine rivers and hungry trout but it is also attractive for the foodie, hiker, biker and/or camper. It offers gorgeous landscapes, not too different from the Rocky Mountains, but this time of year, without the 30 below chills and the chance to enjoy summer activities, in the winter. El Bolson is also a gateway to Patagonia which makes it a destination for all types of travelers.

About El Bolson

El Bolson is a 120 km drive from the lovely but touristy Bareloche. The drive covers an easy mountain pass providing great scenic shots of the Andes. El Bolson is tucked in the valley bordered by the mountains, surrounded by azure lakes and rivers, and is said to resemble a large bag (bolson in Spanish). It is made up of a friendly population of about 18,000, mostly involved in agriculture, but is known for its scenery and warmth towards tourists. It has a reputation of being a hippy town by tour books and Argentines for in the 1960s hippy populations flocked to the area for its natural offerings and to live in peaceful community. As years have past, generations of these families still reside and others have moved to El Bolson to escape the tensions of the city life.

In addition to the natural appeal, El Bolson and the area offers true cuisine and a variety of delicacies. This is an ideal family segue to the landscape offering gentile mountain strolls, rides and lakeside picnics. It is also inviting to the adventurous for it is known as the best hang-gliding and rafting destination in Argentina. For those who like to keep their feet planted, some key attractions include the artisan market, quickly accessible hikes and a national park not more than 15 kilometers away.

The Artisan Market

We planned our travel so we could experience the local craft market held in the town center, Plaza Pagano. It is a good way to get to spend a couple hours browsing for hand made souvenirs and observing the town’s culture. Strolling the park and market, you can see the hippy culture so frequently described. Dread-locked, skinny young people trying to make ends meet selling their hand made jewelry or carved trinket. It reminded me a bit like a Grateful Dead or Phish concert parking lot, just missing the grilled cheese sales person.

The market runs on Tuesday, Thursdays, Saturday and a few optimistic vendors appear on Sunday. Artisans and vendors line the park selling their works varying from jewelry, wood working, and mate gourds. The park surrounds a bright green pond equipped with paddle boats ideal for family entertainment. In addition to local artworks, vendors are selling locally prepared jams, cheeses and microbrews. The valley’s climate is similar to the Pacific Northwest therefore making it ideal growing habitat for hops. As a result, home brewing has become a popular activity and has quite the audience for their flavorful and potent beers. A handful of food vendors provide empanadas, fruit smoothies or slices of handmade pizzas for a perfect lunch destination. After a snack of Argentine pizza washed down with a homemade brew, we sought out the artisan cheese monger for a nice hunk of locally raised cheese to take in our pack for our afternoon plans.

Local Hikes

The tourism office, gas station and inns have maps with easily accessible hikes and walks. Gustavo told us about some of the local paths and recommended the site called Cabeza del Indio (Head of the Indian). The trail location is about 8 km from town and is an easy drive up some dusty dirt roads. Some may enjoy walking it from town, renting a mountain bike, or you can even arrange horseback. Just be cautious of the heat and dust – especially when there is wind. The drive to the trail is longer than the trail itself. There is a small fee for the trail walk to this interesting site. About 10 minutes on a well worn path, you reach the destination. It is a metamorphic rock formation, carved by nature, giving the appearance of a man’s face with his mouth slightly open…whether it is an Indian, can be debated, a unique formation nonetheless. The walk to the Cabeza del Indio is more of a scenic landmark versus a hike. It does provide great views of the landscape including the Rio Azul and the Lago Puelo verifying that you are in Patagonia.

We were hoping to feel a bit more exerted to extend our appetites for the evening. We headed back to town and on the other side of the city center drove to the trail head of the Mirador Cerro Amigo. From the town center you can see this large white cross adorning the foothills. The road to the trailhead is on a steep dirt road – always fun with a small rental car and we smoked the clutch a few times. From the trailhead, it is about 1.5 kilometer walk. The path has many arteries leading to the destination which was a terrific view of the town and surrounding hills. This was also a short jaunt the lending us hours more for exploration.

Lago Puelo

About 15 minutes driving, you can access the National Park Lago Puelo. $6 Argentine pesos you can access this breath taking glacial lake that borders Chile. We took our fishing gear in case we felt inspired by the rivers that feed Lago Puelo. However the lake and Patagonia winds made casting debatable and we decided this was a perfect location to take a lake side walk and eat our packed cheese and bread.

The lake claims to be suitable for swimming and would be inviting if the wind wasn’t so fierce. We did not see anyone being so brave to test the waters. For the trekker, the park also offers a ferry that takes travelers on a 3 hour ride to the Chilean border for a few day walk to the town of t Puerto Mont. For the camper a quicker ride to the other side of the lake to a camp ground at El Turbio. If you camp, don’t forget stakes for your tent.

Drinking and Dinning

All the fresh air, made us thirsty. It was time for a beer. I am a fan of the local brews but I love drinking the beer of the nation. In Argentina, it is Quilmes. A full boded lager, easily purchased at all cafes and convenience stores. When ordering an aperitif, frequently a bowl of peanuts is served, providing enough calories to hold out until dinner, usually starting around 9:00. There are a handful of bars and cafes on Avenue San Martin, across from the Plaza. It is an ideal place to people watch and watch the sun set behind the hills.

I rarely order steaks while dinning out in the States since I could never find one that that beats my husband’s signature dish. However, Argentina is the beef country of South America and I wasn’t going to miss parilla, South American grill, the signature taste of the nation. As much as Argentina loves their beef, they also love their pizza. El Bolson offers a handful of dinning options, mostly falling into these options.

When driving to the Mirador Cerro Amigo we drove past the restaurant Pasiones Argentinas. We didn’t see this one mentioned in our guide books and research. We were attracted to its dark log, mountain house architecture and corner location. Once seated, we were more attracted to the choice wines and the starter plate of dried meats and cheeses. I typically like to follow all courses (or events) with a good brew and Passiones also serves the local microbrews. However the signature flavor of the grilled steak, was the taste of Argentina we were looking to savor. “I am sorry to tell you this, but you no longer prepare the best steak in the world”, I regretful told James while wiping chimichuri sauce off my chin.

Information

Oficina de informes Turisticos – Municipalidad de El Bolson

turismo@elbolson.com

www.elbolson.gov.ar

Phone: (02944) 492-604

Oficina de informes Turisticos – Municipalidad de Lago Puelo

turismo@lagopuelo.gov.ar

www.lagopuelo.gov.ar

Phone: (02944) 499-591

La Posada de Hamelin (Inn)’

4 room B&B with private baths. About $70 USD

2179 Granollers Ave.

posadadehamelin@elbolson.com

www.posadadehamelin.com.ar

Phone: (02944) 492-030

Pasiones Argentina Café and Resto Bar

Belgrano y Berutti

www.pasionesrestobar.com.ar

Phone: (02944) 483-616

Esquel Outfitters – Fly Fishing Tours

http://www.esqueloutfitters.com

mike@esqueloutfitters.com

USA (406) 581-1760 (May – November)

Nestled between Mexico, Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador, Guatemala is 42,000 sq. miles or about the size of Tennessee (Foster, 274). The country is covered in fertile coastal plains, rugged terrain (such as mountains and volcanoes), beautiful lakes, and lush vegetation. Forests and wooded areas cover approximately 54% of the land (Foster, 274). In fact, the name Guatemala itself means “Land of Forests” (Countries). The people living here are just as diverse. According to the 2009 estimate given in the CIA World Factbook, the population total is 13,276,517. Fifty-two percent of the population consists of Indians – primarily Mayan – and the other 48% consists of mestizo, who is a person of mixed origin – in this case, Indian and Spanish (Foster, 275). It’s not surprising that 40% of the population still speaks some form of a Mayan language. There are actually 53 dialects of Mayan still in use in Guatemala (Lewis).

Travel is tedious in Guatemala. The streets are narrow in the cities, so most natives walk, ride a bike or a motorbike. However, if you need to commute a farther distance, there are cars, trucks and buses that will bring you safely to your destination. The buses that are used look more like American school buses, and they probably aren’t the best equipped for the treacherous, unpaved roads. However, they are more effective than walking. Just be sure to be prepared for a long, bumpy ride. For shorter distances, such as driving to the next town, most use a car or a pick-up truck.

Guatemala has a long and colorful history. To explore it in depth would mean the composition of a book, but it is important to outline the timeline. The Maya civilization thrived well into the year 800 AD. The so-called “collapse” of the empire due to the Spanish conquistadors is actually a complete fallacy. Over five hundred years prior to the arrival of the Spanish, the Maya peoples were undergoing a transformation of political and economic ethos in regards to how power was being distributed (Martin, 18). However, the colonization of the Maya by the Spanish in the 16th century decimated them through warfare and foreign pathogens (Martin, 20). Guatemala was ruled by the Spaniards until September 15, 1821 when they gained independence. Despite their independence, there was extreme ethnocentrism between the native Maya population and the ladinos. Military dictatorships often tyrannized the people and lead the government (“Soul”).

“Most of its people are Indians, but the mestizo population prefers to deny its high proportion of Maya blood: so it turns against the Indians, transmuting into contempt its impotence to assume its own identity. Four and a half centuries of racism infect the national and social conscience of the ladinos.” (Galeano, 19)

The first demonstration of ethnic conflict occurred in October 22, 1944 in a small town called Patrizia. Indians rose up demanding land from the governing race. More than twenty ladinos were killed that day. Soldiers were sent out to quell the rioting and what happened after that has been described as a “bloodbath”. Nine hundred Indians were murdered: men, women and children alike. It was an awful day in their history. (Martin, 24) Sixteen years later, the Guatemalan Civil War broke out. One of the leading factors was the injustice dealt to the indigenous peoples of Guatemala. What the civil war actually did was provide for numerous changes in the government and policy that supported recognition of the multicultural population (Martin, 25). Starting in the 1970s and continuing into the 1980s, there were movements aiming towards Mayan revitalization. It gained continuous momentum until the signing up the Peace Accord in 1996 (Countries). Things have improved for the Maya Indians because of this. Many are becoming more educated. They can now pursue career paths in medicine, engineering, journalism, law and social work (Countries).

The Maya and Ladinos may live in the same country, but there is a separation of culture. It is a bittersweet blend of the old and the new. Ladino culture is dominant in the urban areas while the Maya reside in the rural highlands and practice their traditional religious and village customs. This means distinct differences in food, clothing, gender roles, marriage, religion, and arts and crafts.

Ladinos wear mostly American and European clothing. However, Maya clothing is very colorful and highly ornamental. The Indian women wear a wrap-around skirt and a loose over-garment semi-resembling a blouse and the combination of the two is called traje (Osborne, 103). The blouse-like garment is called a huipil and the skirt is called refajo (Osborne, 104). Usually, the women will plait their hair in long tresses as well. Because of the strong rays of the sun, Maya women and some ladinas wear a ribozo on their heads or shoulders. This can also be tied over the shoulder and used to carry infants or babies. Men in Guatemala almost always resemble a cowboy from an old western. They usually wear long cotton trousers and a camisa, a men’s shirt (Osborn, 135).

Tortillas, tamales, black beans, rice, bread and pasta are staples consumed by all Guatemalans. However, depending on their income, they may also eat chicken, pork and beef, or fish if they are living by a body of water (Countries). Being a country so rich in vegetation, they also have a wide variety of fruits and vegetables such as avocados, radishes, broccoli, turnips, artichokes, pineapples, papayas, mangoes, guavas and peaches (Countries). Just like in the United States, three meals is the rule. However, lunch is usually their biggest meal and it is usually eaten around noon. Businesses would close for two to three hours, allowing employees to return home to be with their family (Countries). Eating for the Maya is slightly different. Maize is more than just a food to them. They believe it is the sacred flesh of their god who created the world and people out of corn (Martin, 27).

“If several grains should fall to the floor accidentally, or if a young child unknowingly should spill some, the mother of the household will often stop whatever she is doing, tenderly pick up the maize, dust it off and apologize for not showing it proper honor.” (Martin, 27)

Farming is the main source of income for the Mayans. The most important crops to grow are corn, beans and squash. They are also known to grow bananas, tomatoes and radishes in the rich soil by the river. Coffee, cotton and tobacco are also export products (Martin, 118).

In both the Maya and Ladinos, women are associated with the domestic world and men are associated with agriculture, business, and manufacturing. Statistically speaking, women are less educated than men and therefore paid less. There are more women working in the nursing, secretarial and clerical industry but men are predominate in teaching (Countries). Older Ladino and Indian teenagers of both genders are primary workers in manquilas, a form of employment that is preferred to domestic work (Countries). As young as five years old, children are expected to help with the house work. On the street, they may sell candies or “watch” parked cars. Some Maya men and women go to the fincas to work. These are plantations for coffee, sugar, cotton, etc. According to Rigoberta Menchú the conditions were horrible.

“When you are working, for example, and you take a Little rest, he [the overseer] comes and insults you, ‘Keep working, that’s what you’re paid for, he says. They also punish the slow workers. Sometimes we’re paid by the day, and sometimes for the amount of work done. It’s when we work by the day that we get the worst treatment.” (22-23).

Marriages are celebrated in a civil ceremony followed by a religious rite. Sometimes, in Mayan communities, couples are arranged. However, most couples chose each other and elope (Countries). Monogamy is the social rule, however many men take a mistress. Sadly enough, among the poorer classes, Maya and Ladino alike, unions are free and therefore brittle. Some do not even know their fathers, nor would they recognize him if they saw him. Rigoberta Menchú, an Indian woman raised in Guatemala, explained the four marriage customs of her people. The first is the “open door” which means that marriage is flexible and there is no commitment. The second is the commitment to the parents when the girl has accepted the boy. The third is the ceremony when the boy and girl make their vows to each other. Lastly, the fourth is the wedding, also called the despedida (61). Girls often get married very young; sometimes having children by the time they are fifteen years old.

Roman Catholicism was introduced by the Spanish but in the twentieth century, Protestantism started becoming popular. Now it is estimated that approximately 40% of Guatemalans adhere to a Protestant church (Countries). In the late 1500s, Diego de Landa, a Catholic Friar, set out into the Yucatán to convert the indigenous races to Catholicism. To help this conversion, he learned their language customs and religion (Martin, 97). Several Maya combine Christian beliefs with their own practices inherited from their ancestors. These rites may include ceremonies to carry out agricultural success, easy childbirth, recovery from illness, protection from the elements, and to honor the dead. These services are usually carried out by specific caves, mountains and bodies of water in the belief that there are spirits of nature (Countries). It is believed that every child is born with a nahual, which is like a shadow or protective spirit and it is usually an animal. The child is taught that if you kill an animal, the animal’s human double will be angry with him for killing his nahual. Days are actually divided into certain animals such as dogs, cats, horses, bulls, birds or lions (Wright, 18).

Ceramics is a popular art practiced by the Maya. Their techniques have been modified over time by the European influence. The potter’s wheel was introduced at the end of the seventeenth century (Osborn, 205). Women generally make household utensils as well as batidores (medium-sized jugs), escudillas (small round dishes), and sartenas (round dishes with two handles and used as a frying pan). Colors vary from shades of blue to green and crimson, depending on the oxide of copper or iron (Osborn, 212). Women also make different kinds of bags. They differ in size and material. Matates are small bags made out of maguey fiber. The women need to use a three-inch needle to manufacture them (Osborn, 176). They also craft hammocks, saddlebags for pack animals, and nets for fishing. “It has been said that the basket craft is perhaps the first device created by human ingenuity that may be called a luxury” (Osborn, 197). Maya and ladino alike enjoy this very important craft. There are several different kinds, each for its own purpose. The canasta panadero is large and wide and used to hold and carry large varieties of bread (Osborn, 198). They can then sell these creations on Market Day in close towns.

“The Maya speak from their hearts in discussing the problems they confront, yet they have little political clout with which to improve their situation. Surviving the twenty-first century will be the greatest challenge the Maya culture has ever faced.” (Martin, 140)

Gradually, the Maya and Ladinos are learning to live together. Hopefully this growth will continue and come to benefit them completely as a country. Despite accomplishments, the Maya still have challenges ahead. Guatemala is so diverse and beautiful that despite its violent history, I believe it still deserves the slogan “Soul of the Earth”. I went down there knowing nothing about its culture, its people or its language, but I came back with so much more.

Works Cited

Countries and Their Cultures. 2007. Advameg Inc. July 10, 2009.

Food by Country. 2007. Advameg Inc. July 10, 2009.

Foster, Lynn. A Brief History of Central America. New York, New York: Facts on File, Inc., 2000.

Galeano, Eduardo. Guatemala: Occupied Country. New York, NY: Monthly Review Press, 1969.

Lewis, Paul (ed.) Ethnologue: Languages of the World (16th edition). Dallas, Texas: SIL International, 2009.

Martin, Bruce. Look Close, See Far: A Cultural Portrait of the Maya. New York: George Braziller, Inc, 2007.

Martín, Antonio Zárate, and José Sánchez Sánchez. Guatemala. Madrid: Anaya, 1988.

Osborn, Jongh, and Lily Osborn. Indian Crafts of Guatemala and El Salvador. Norman, Oklahoma: University of Oklahoma Press, 1965.

“Soul of the Earth”. 2009. Mazalien. July 20, 2009.

Wright, Ann (translator). I, Rigoberta Menchú: An Indian Woman in Guatemala. New York: Verso, 1984.

Chan Chan

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Chan Chan.  The world’s largest adobe built city receives a tiny fraction of the visitors that Machu Picchu receives.  Ten citadels, all walled, make up the site and within them are scores of temples, burial chamber and reservoirs.  Triangular in shape the wall that surrounds it can reach sixty feet in height.  You can easily get lost in this vast city, made up of a labyrinth of walkways.  The surface of walls made from adobe brick were smoothed over and everywhere you will see highly detailed carvings, mostly of animals.

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Built around CE 850, the city was built by the Chimor civilization.  It was conquered by the Incas in 1470 and it is thought that at its height over thirty thousand people inhabited the city, close to the Pacific Ocean.  The site covers around twenty square kilometers – its vastness will take your breath away.  Although some parts of the city are off limits (there are still threats from looters as well as the ravages of earthquakes and our old friend El Niño) the Tschudi Complex, open to the public, will more than sate your appetite for history and archeology at this remarkable place.  Talking of sating, where to eat – and indeed to stay, before and after your visit?

Trujillo

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Chan Chan is only five kilometers away from Peru’s third largest city.  Trujillo has close to a million inhabitants and was founded almost five hundred years ago by the Spanish.  If you think you have heard the name before you are quite right – there is a town of the same name in the Extremadura region of Spain.  Ironically as things go (another example of course is New York), the Peruvian city is many times more populous than its original namesake. 

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The architecture is very well preserved and beautifully colored.  The city was the first in Peru to declare itself independent of Spanish rule, way back in 1820 and was even the country’s temporary capital for a number of years, hosting the famous Simón Bolívar, one of the most important figures in the struggle of Spanish America for independence from Spain.  The average temperature of the city is 21 degrees but it can reach 32 centigrade.  However, although that sounds hot Trujillo is revered locally as the city of eternal spring and indeed, if you can make it during that season you can, additionally enjoy the festival that takes place there during that time.

Huanchaco

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However, if you like a combination of archeology and beach lounging then the coastal town of Huanchaco may be more up your street.  Although it is a little further away from Chan Chan than Trujillo, the beaches are wonderful, as is the surfing, and you will still be able to immerse yourself in Peruvian culture.  The fishermen there still use paddling boats (Caballitos de Totora) built in the same manner for thousands of years.  Some jokily call them the first ever surf boards.

Huaca de la Luna

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A few miles away from Chan Chan you will find the remnants of an even older civilization.  The Moche built two pyramids: each layer of the pyramids was built on top of the previous to provide a ruler with his final resting place.  The one known as Huaca de la Luna (the resonantly named Temple of the Moon) is the one which most people tend to visit.  The Moche, who built these pyramids between the first and eighth centuries were well known for their predilection for human sacrifices.  If you have ever seen a certain Mel Gibson directed film you can imagine the shenanigans.

Huaca Del Sol

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The Huaca Del Sol is the larger of the two pyramids and it too around one hundred million adobe bricks to build.  Unfortunately only about a third of it is now extant because of erosion and, you guessed it, looting.  As Chan Chan is the largest adobe city, so Huaca Del Sol is the largest single adobe structure in the Americas.  Archeologists have studied the marks on the bricks and have ascertained that over one hundred different communities, from far and wide, contributed bricks to its construction.

The Royal Tombs of Sipán

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You may be surprised to find such a beautifully stylized and contemporary museum among such ancient surroundings, but three hours drive from the pyramids the busy town of Chiclayo hosts the Museum of the Royal Tombs of Sipán.  The museum was only opened in 2002 and is designed to look similar to the ancient mausoleums of the Moche people.  It houses the discoveries of Doctor Walter Alva Alva and his first wife (who is buried on the front lawn), made in 1987.  These discoveries are simply astounding and, astonishingly, do not seem to have become ingrained in the popular consciousness.

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The museum houses a host of breath taking artifacts made from a variety of materials – some very precious.  They are from the tombs of two local Moche leaders, known now as the Lord and the Old Lord of Sipán.  The tombs were discovered intact – no grave robbers had discovered their whereabouts and as such their amazing wealth and wonderful culture is there for us to see today.  DNA analyses have been conducted and indeed, the two Lords are related, sowing that a single family probably ruled over the region in ancient times.  Lord Sipán’s entourage of eight was buried with him – with no feet.  No running away from their fate then.

Cajamarca

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If you drive six miles inland you will come across the beautiful town of Cajamarca.  Almost three thousand meters above sea level it is home to over one hundred thousand people.  There have been people living here for over three thousand years and the Spanish built directly on top of the old Incan city.  You could spend days exploring the city and discovering its wonderful colonial architecture.

Ventanillas de Otuzco

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As well as stunning colonial architecture you will discover the Ventanillas de Otuzco, which are where the Incas buried their dead.  The tombs were excavated from the volcanic rock that predominates in the area.  There is also an Incan medicinal hot springs in the city, which saw the downfall of the Incan leader Atahualpa at the hands of the Spaniard Pizarro.

Kuelap

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Having seen the above you have to be a little more adventurous to get to possibly the prize of Northern Peruvian archeological history.  Kuelap is a huge fortress which overlooks the Utcubabma valley.  Built for defensive purposes by the Chachapoyas the enormous stone walls that surround the site hold inside them the remains of over four hundred structures. The site was begun at about the same time the Romans were leaving Britain. 

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At three thousand meters above sea level the fortress represented a real challenge for its builders and it is large.  It is as large as or bigger than other archeological sites in Peru and is six hundred meters in length.  The walls at their highest are nineteen meters and as such there are numerous layers within the fortress to be explored.  This you can do at your leisure and peacefully.  While Mach Picchu receives half a million visitors each year Kuelap hosts a paltry three thousand.  If you love your archeology but want the road less traveled then this is the spot for you.

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The structures are mostly cylindrical and some of them have been restored (if that is the right word) to bear a resemblance to how they would have looked in their heyday.  As with many of the other sites in Northern Peru, friezes of animals are an important part of the ornate decorations of many of the structures.

The Gocta Falls

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There is a final secret of Northern Peru that should be visited if possible – and this was a real secret to outsiders until very recently.  That is the incredible and only recently discovered (by Westerners of course, the locals have known about it for as long as they have been there) Gocta Falls.  This twin drop waterfall is said to be the third longest in the world (hotly debated), at seven hundred and seventy one meters.  The ‘discovery’ was not made until 2005.

So, if you are considering Peru for a destination, perhaps you should consider forgoing the more popular (and populous) destinations and head for the north of the country.  It is perhaps a more challenging place to visit but possibly a more satisfying one.

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You’ll be awed by the unique civilization they created, which peaked between 250 A.D. and 900 A.D. The Maya invented the America’s most sophisticated written native language, came up with the concept of zero long before the Europeans, and developed a calendar more accurate than the one we used today.  In fact, while Europe languished in the Dark Ages, Maya kings with names like “Smoke Imix” and “Moon Jaguar” presided over grand pyramids and palaces. 

Most are intrigued by the central mystery of the Maya glyphs, stone carvings and murals that adorn the temples and ceremonial cities were left to become enshrouded in jungle, their culture lives on in the customs and language of their descendants.  You’ll hear many different Maya dialects throughout this region. 

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Set inland, about 125 miles from Cancun, the vast park-like site of Chichen Itza is filled with architectural treasures.  Among its highlights are the delicately carved stones mosaics of the Nunnery Annex, the fine acoustics of the grand ball court, and the Temple of the Warriors, bristling with columns.  Peek into the sacred Cenote to see where gold, jade and other offerings were thrown to appease the gods.  As you scale the four-sided Pyramid of Kukulkan (El Castillo), remember that you’re actually climbing a huge solar clock:  Its steps, plus the platform on top, add up to the 365 days of the solar year.  During the spring and fall equinoxes, sun and shadow cast a serpent shape that appears to slither along the steps of this towering temple.

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The Latin city, Merida, the Yucatan Peninsula’s most charming city, revels in music.  In the limestone-laced Puuc Hills, about 50 miles south of Merida stand some of the most elegant structures of the Maya world.  Intricate geometrical designs of cut and carved stone are the hallmark of the Puuc style that characterizes the Uxmal, Kabah, Sayil, and Labna sites.

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The largest complex, Uxmal, greets you with its imposing Pyramid of the Magician—the oval-shaped Maya pyramid.  Uxmal’s Palace of the Governors, a building as long and lean as the best modern architecture, is crowned by a dazzling geometrical frieze made from 20,000 cut stone.  Within the vicinity are the Loltun Caves, containing Maya pictographs and lovely formations. 

The Maya sites of the Rio Bec region in the southern Yucatan Peninsula include  Becan (known for its moat), Chicanna (featuring massive doorways representing an earth monster’s gaping mouth), and Kohunlich, remarkable for its pyramid decorated with giant masks that portray the sun god.

Known for its fine regional anthropology museum as well as La Venta, a park and museum displaying the giant basalt heads and other sculptures carved by the Olmecs—Mexico’s most ancient civilization – Villahermosa is the closest city to Palenque, which is regarded as one of the most beautiful sites in the Maya world. 

Topped with pierced “roof combs” to make them taller, Palenque’s graceful temples are set against a backdrop of jungle-covered mountains.  Wild bird calls and the splashing of a river hidden in the rain forest add to its beauty.  Follow the tunnel into the Temple of the Inscriptions to see what, in 1952, was the first tomb ever found beneath a pyramid in the Americas.  The jade mask and other adornments found in this royal tomb are displayed at the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.

One of Mexico’s natural wonders is the Agua Azul, where turquoise cascades tumble out of the rain forest into a series of swirling pools—they’re Mother Nature’s version of a whirlpool bath!