White clouds were chasing each other through the blue sky hurrying to a meeting point we couldn’t see. Fresh green on the hillsides showed the effect of the autumn rains after a scorching hot and dry summer. It hadn’t rained a lot yet; the tires still billowed out plumes of dust from the curb whenever I had to get out of the way for a bus or a lorry coming down the hill. The air still held the summer’s heat but with a promise of cooler weather to come.

Image source

Topping the hill we followed the road to the parking space. It promised to be quite a walk, as only the top of the temple was visible behind a further little hill. Locking up the car, we stepped out into the grass walking a beeline towards the temple. Clouds were starting to pile up on the horizon while we walked, the billowing mass of cumulus clouds building up over a source of hot air.

Coming to the temple on the same level, we just stood there taking in its enormity. It was huge, a statement of power and ostentation. The Doric pillars were reaching into the sky supporting a tympanum touching the gathering clouds. Tourists were coming out of the temple making their leisurely way towards the parking lot. We ambled along the columns around the temple before entering into it.

Image source

By the time we got to its centre, we were all alone, all tourists had left. The light had almost faded, eaten up by an expanse of black, churning clouds centring over the temple. Billowing gusts of cold wind buffeted at us while we discussed the lay-out of the interior. And suddenly the sluice opened pouring heavy raindrops on us. Within seconds we were wet to the skin. Spectacular lighting tore open the sky dousing everything into ghostly blue light immediately followed by a deafening blast of thunder.

Looking upwards into the streaming rain, my son yelled “Zeus, I presume”. He was answered by another display of lightening filling the sky and a further blast of ear-splitting thunder. “Do you think I angered him?” he asked me, still peering at the churning black mass of clouds. I looked upwards as well, noticing that the clouds showed dirty yellow fringes now. “No, it’s just his boisterous way of saying ‘Yes, mortal’” I returned.

Image source

Wet and cold, we started the retreat over the little hill with grass now slippery and treacherous with rain. Halfway to the parking, hail being driven by a screaming wind pelted us into a run for the safety of our car while lightning and thunder kept on assailing our eyes and ears.

The vegetation of the Amalfi Coast is typically Mediterranean and includes trees such as the orange, lemon, palm, olive, and citron along with poppies blooming consistently. The cliff road with its narrow lanes and hairpin turns offers a captivating view of the landscape and sea or you may choose to walk along the coast for an aspiring adventure. The smell of citric and the sight of rare wild flowers, herbs, and the sight of amphibians invite you to keep walking. The jagged cliffs have been terraced to cultivate lemon and olive groves contributing to this wonderful view.

The lemons are among the best in the world and they have been admired from poets and artists of the ages, who often mentioned them in poems and songs. The lemons have been popular since the Roman times when they were introduced during the Crusades to provide vitamin C on long sea voyages in order to prevent scurvy.

Most of us have working knowledge of Caesar and the Colloseum, but I seek to activate the audience’s emotional and intellectual resources as they mentally walk through the Forum. As John Barmoy, Roman visitor in 2004 commented, “After walking through the narrow streets with all the tightly packed shops and stores, my first impression of the Forum was that it seemed unusually large, open, scattered. All this green space in the middle of such congestion. It almost seemed out of place.” A tour of any sort, whether in person or in prose, aims to make these seemingly desolate ruins come alive for you as you view them and relish in their antiquity. This is a place of artistic expression, a place of death and a place of honor.

This “unusually large, open, [and] scattered” archaeological site represents the very origins of Rome, also known as, the “Eternal City.” Of course, it is imperative to have a little historical background, which will lead to the very entranceway to the Forum by way of the Colloseum. Rome officially dates back to 753 BC, after the birth of Romulus and Remus, twin sons to the Vestal Virgin, Rhea Silvia. Already we have a problem because virgins don’t give birth. The title, “Vestal Virgin”, was bestowed upon Rhea Silvia, as well as other girls between the ages of six and ten, chosen by the Pontifus Maximus. They took on the responsibility and privilege as keepers to the Eternal Flame, always to be kept burning, hence Rome’s nickname as the “Eternal City.”

Vestal virgins lived in “The House of Vesta,” which remains in the Roman Forum to date. Vesta, goddess of hearth or fire, led the Vestal Virgins as they served for thirty years and took the oath of chastity. So Rhea Silvia, when demanded to name her concubine, names not a man, not a woman, but a god, the god of Mars, god of war. As was the punishment, she was buried alive in a field out beyond the confines of this land in the Field of Villains, also known as the “Field of Shame.” The twin boys, as the professed result of this sexual unification of mortal and god, scared the people of the land. They anticipated the wrath of the gods, known to cause chaos and disrupt their way of life so the boys were set adrift on the Tiber in order to rid of them. Found and nurtured by a she-wolf, they were later discovered by a shepherd named Faustinus.

They age and grow to be stronger and of higher intellect than those of the times and sibling rivalry ensues. They part ways and set up two separate cities by the hills where they were found and saved. Originally there were eight hills, but one was lost to an earthquake, just one of the natural disasters responsible for lost land and ground level shifts in and around this area. Romulus takes to the Palatine and Remus to Aventine Hill. One day, six vultures fly over Remus up on this hill, which the superstitious Remus interprets as a sign of flattery from the gods. Romulus, later visited by twelve, insists on his fate as the stronger, chosen one. They meet here,

about where this arch stands, crossing the lines they had previously established. Romulus slays Remus, unites two cities and Rome is born. Further egotism leads him to name the city after himself, obvious in the modern term, Rome, also a derivation of the word “Rom” meaning “strong.”

He takes his place as the first king of this new single government later followed by six more: Three Sabines who came from a neighboring town, initially invited to increase the female population under Romulus’ rule. The three that followed were Etruscan, from the North, modern day Tuscany, who brought artistic influences in the form of pottery. 450 years of monarchy ends with the rape of Lucretia, known to be superior in beauty, loyalty and the expected female modest behavior. Her rapist commits suicide on the Rostra, a speaking platform down in the basin. Her husband, Collatinus and his friend Brutus slay the monarchy, or noble family, and became the first two consuls leading to the end of monarchy and the first days of the Roman Republic.

The birth of the Senate follows. However, the plebian, or common people’s, discontent with patrician rule led to a revolt which generated the Twelve Tables, the first remnants of Roman law, which were large bronze chiseled tablets literally exhibited in the Forum. Attempts to protect the weak from the powerful, they were meant to implement reforms and outlined customs leading towards equality among the classes. Realistically they existed within a still highly conservative community.

This was followed by the time of the divine Julius Caesar, which we will of course dive into later. He dies in 44 BC succeeded by his nephew Octavian, leading to Constantinople rule and later the Byzantine Empire when the Western empire was ruled by the Pope and the Eastern was under the Emperor’s rule. This empire lasts from the 4th century to roughly 1869. In 1870, Italy is unified, Rome becomes the capital and the territories and language are brought together for the first time under King Vittorio Emmanuele, to which the massive white monument with the stairs, flames and guards now stands down the road at Piazza Venezia.

It wasn’t until this time, around 1870 that the rediscovery of the Forum generated 130 years of excavations that led to identification, continuing inquiries and theories as they put together Roman history in the context of it religious, political and archaeological progression.

Image via Wikipedia

Venice, Northern Italy, is a city that is worth seeing before it is too late. The whole place is slowly sinking into the sea and in recent years the rate of that sinking has started to speed up. The City is built on a hundred and eighteen small islands in a lagoon off the coast of Italy. It’s a salt water lagoon and the islands are linked by bridges. The whole thing is indeed an amazing sight.

Life in Venice depends very much on the tides and during the Acqua Alta which is the peak time for the tide, everyone seems to disappear and take refuge inside. There are no cars here because there are no roads, just waterways, and transport is by boat, or on foot.

Basilica Di San Marco, Venice

Image via Wikipedia

Image via Wikipedia

Image by Eustaquio Santimano via Flickr

Basilica Di San Marco is probably one of the best known Venetian religious buildings. Building started in 828 and the structure was destroyed by fire a hundred years later. It was rebuilt in 1094 and again in 1807, so there has been a religious building on the site for more than a thousand years.

Things to See in Venice

Image via Wikipedia

Image via Wikipedia

Image by Eustaquio Santimano via Flickr

There are a number of galleries housing paintings, tapestries and ceramics, including the fifteenth century Gothic building, Ca’ d’ Oro, which as the name suggests, was once faced with gold. This has all worn off over the years.

Venice has two cathedrals and a number of Franciscan and Dominican churches. In fact there is an almost unbelievable density of ecclesiastical buildings in the city. These are interspersed among palatial sixteenth and seventeenth century mansions. For anyone who is interested in architecture the range of styles is a real treat for the senses.

The Lido, Venice

The Lido used to be a fashionable seaside resort but the water is often polluted and it isn’t very well kept. Apart from that it is horrendously expensive even for the hire of a sunbed, or deckchair. This is not the place to be if you prefer a beach holiday.

Mercato Ittico, Venice

Image by Eustaquio Santimano via Flickr

Mercato Ittico is a market which is well worth visiting if you get there early. It is held along Canale de San Domenico. There is everything you could imagine and more for sale here. The Venetian glass and lace is popular with visitors. It is a real experience and certainly not one to be missed.

Napoloeon’s Park and Gardens

Venice’s public gardens were built by Napoleon in 1811 and a complete residential district including four churches was burned to the ground to make room for the park. There are lots of shaded benches, a snack bar and a few swings for the children here, but not much else.

Venice: City of Light, Bridges and Strange Smells

Image by llamnudds via Flickr

Image via Wikipedia

This is a strangely mysterious city with its bridges and old buildings steeped in history, and its beautiful churches. It is known as the city of light, but to be frank, it smells. There is always an underlying odour of stagnant, dirty water and it follows you everywhere, into the restaurants, into your hotel room, and it clings to everything you own.

There are very few Venetians left in the city (about 64,000) and the majority of people who work there go back across the bridge at night time to their homes. It is only a matter of time before Venice and its beautiful architecture disappears beneath the salty waters of the Adriatic.

Every major city in the world has comfortable diminutive hotels, but somehow the Romans have taken the art of operating these tiny delightful inns to a “best in class” status. 

The Hotel Villa San Pio is one such hospitality establishment. You can feel the stress of travel, and the hectic city, fall away as soon as you step foot into the foyer courtyard.

The Villa is nestled in an exclusive and quiet neighborhood complete with beautiful arching trees, and free of noise and traffic. In spite of its idyllic location, the San Pio is within walking distance of the famous Roman Colosseum, and many other sites of the ancient city. 

Checking in at the front desk of the San Pio is a quick and comfortable experience that is immediately followed by a brief guided stroll to your room through the tranquil shaded garden.

Each guest room at the Villa is elegantly decorated in period antiques and warm colors highlighted in gold trim. The bathrooms are constructed in varying shades of marble in a European modern motif. 

Most of the second floor rooms overlook the surrounding neighborhood of well-kept homes and old-world gardens. 

The public areas of the hotel are handsomely decorated in marble, and the floors are covered with fine oriental rugs.

 The first floor dining area is quaint, airy, and casual. The room overlooks the garden through an unobtrusive wall of glass. There is also a gazebo in the Mediterranean garden - perfect for enjoying an outdoor repast. 

Antique paintings and elegant furniture complete the setting of this relaxing refuge – a perfect escape from the hectic days of an exciting Roman holiday. 

Photos by Wayne and Judy Bayliff 

I think this first day has to be the heaviest, because it’s the start of the trip, everybody is anxious and no one is tired!.

The first day yo can go to the “Palatino”, “Foro Romano” and the “Coliseum”.  They all have the same ticket, so don’t go first to Coliseum.  Early at the morning go and enjoy the “Palatino”and “Foro Romano”, which it’s better to avoid the hot of the midday.  After resting a bit and having lunch, you can go to the shadows of the “Coliseum” and see that piece of history.   After that you can go to the Piazza Campidoglio (Michelangelo designed it) and contemplate the monument of Vittorio Emannuele. 

All these things are very close!, so you can do!.. Don’t miss any place, all I told, worth a visit

 
2nd Day

“The baths” (Le terme of Caracalla), the “Massimo circus”, the temples near the river, and the “Bocca della Verita” are very close.  I strongly recommend the baths… is simply spectacular, the grandiosity, you have the feeling of what was the scale of the Roman power and leisure. La Bocca is very tourist so It’s nice!.

After that you can go to “The Pantheon”, that it’s located in the heart of Rome.  It’s an espectacular temple, with an enormous hole in the “cupula”.  Free entrance

3rd day

“The church of jesus” has a drawn dome, it’s fake!  It’s a very beautiful Jesuitic church, so it worth a visit with all the golden paintings .

“Piazza della Repubblica” and the church of “Santa Maria Maggiore”are very close both of them.  Be careful with the pickpockets.  It’s very nice the road that climbs up to the piazza with charming shops and beautiful buildings.  The church “Santa Maria Maggiore” is very big, it’s amazing

 
4th Day

I recommend you going to the Vatican at the end (because of that porpouse of not to mix dates)  So, there you can walk the spectacular Vatican City.   “Vaticano” it is one of the European microstates and have a population of 900 inhabitants.  You must go to “San Pedro del Vaticano” where yo can see the huge church, work of a mixture of renassaince architects, the “pietá” (piety) of michelangelo, the thomb of Juan Pablo II and some original columns of the Constantine first Catholic church.  Right down the centre of the church and of the “baldachino” made by Bernini is buried the body of “San pedro”.  You must go up to the dome!

After San Pedro you should go to the Vatican Museums (Sistine Chapel and Raphael Stays).

The, you can visit some Baroque churches and city fontains.
 
 
You must visit Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, Piazza Spain and the Campo di Fiori. My advice is to see half the day or dusk, and again … all this to happen several times at night … .. walking at night it’s wonderful, but that’s up to you.
You have to go to the neighborhood of trastevere!. If you do not get cornered by place downtown Rome …. I encourage you to go trastevere. It’s relatively near, just a few meters across the River. If you can’t stay there, you can eat at trastevere! .. It’s very pretty, less tourists, cheaper and better food.

A zone that is good to go for dinner is the Piazza Navona. looking back of the high church in piazza navona.  A charming neighborhood similaral trastevere.

Trulli (plural of Trullo), are traditional Apulian stone dwellings with conical roofs. Located almost exclusively in the countryside south of Bari, and particularly in the towns of Alberobello and Martina Franca (the main two locations where visitors come to look from close these domes); the origins of their unique construction style still remain unknown today.

While anything  is covered by a veil of mystery, the only certain fact about, is the simple way of construction and practicality – Trulli are cool in summer, warm in winter, cheap and easy to build. Strangely, similar constructions do not exist elsewhere around the Mediterranean, where both weather and the available materials are similar.

A Trullo is a remarkable example of drywall (mortar-less) construction. Unesco included Trulli in the World Heritage Sites List, as “…the site is of outstanding universal value being an exceptional example of a form of building construction deriving from prehistoric construction techniques that have survived intact and functioning into the modern world”.”

Atop a trullo’s cone there is normally a symbolic pinnacle, that may be one of many designs. Additionally, the cone itself may have a symbol painted on it. Such symbols may include planetary symbols, the cross, the malochio (evil eye), a heart, a star and crescent, or quite a few others.

According to a theory, the origins of these dwellings ought their roots in the skill of the locals. During the 15th century, Ferdinand I of Aragon has banned its nationals to build permanent residences in Apulia, whereas his labours should be avaliable to move in different locations at any time. Thus, Apulia’s residents built stone makeshift houses, without cement addition which could easily dismantle in the case the region rulers dictated them to move, or to avoid the law by this clever way when emperor’s auditors visited the region.

Another similar theory says, that these houses represent a clever form of evasion. Aragons had imposed a tax on all houses except those that were incomplete – as the villagers claimed by removing (and after re-placing later) the conical roofs of their houses.

These theories sound picturesque, but likely, the real origins of these structures could be even more interesting. The older dwellings date back in the 13th century although the majority of them are only 200 or 300 years old. Modern scholars found many common points in the construction technique between Trulli and some similar structures at Mycenae, similarity which reveals that if there is such a relation, the origins of these structures are 5000 years old. This theory has a base, as the ports of Apulia are closer to Greece than any other in Italy. Moreover, let us not to forget that Southern Italy and Sicily comprising “Magna Grecia” (Great Greece), while the area colonised be Greeks between 8th and 3rd century BC. Unfortunately this version does not explain why Trulli are geographically limited.

According to another theory, the construction style of Trulli is based on the standards of Syrian and Middle East residences; while the first Trulli were built in Apulia as houses or tombs of monks who settled there from the East. Later, the locals adopted the construction method, and adapted these structures to their daily needs. Another similar view claims that Trulli firstly built by soldiers returning to Apulia from the Holy Land Crusades.

In Almperompello you will have the opportunity to admire around 1000 Trulli. The name of this town, which means “Beautiful tree” (Silva Arboris Belli) derives by the oak forests once covered the area.

Keep in mind that it is most possible to meet many tourists around; so my tip is to visit Alberobello early in the morning before the invasion of the hordes. You will be rewarded by the stunning morning light and the calm atmosphere. (When it is possible try this tip in every heavy touristed destination, you will not regret for the couple of hours you may shorten your sleep.)

On the way to the neighbouring town of Martina Franka, you would be able to admire many Trulli in the countryside, and along the Itria valley from Martina Franka to Locorotondo. Despite its colourless surroundings, Martina Franca worths a visit for its baroque buildings and also for the great panoramic view that offers from the walls of the town to the countryside with the characteristic domes.

(All images by the author)

You can visit also:

Urbino the Picturesque

Herculaneum the Unknown

Bagheria: “Villa of the Monsters”

Palermo: The Capuchin Catacombs, the Museum of the Dead

Temple of Epicure Apollo

Theatre of Epidaurus: A Marvel of Acoustics

In the 6th century BC, the central site of the Forum was a busy marketplace frequented by the citizens of Rome.  Over time, the Patricians added temples, and with the growth of the Republic, government buildings eventually covered the hilly landscape that backs up to the famous Coliseum. 

The monuments and skeletal remains of the Forum have survived centuries of wars, conquests, natural disasters, and ruinous plagues.  They have stood silent witness to the advent of a great democracy, a world religion – and ultimately the fall of the mighty Roman Empire.

The Forum’s public spaces were indeed impressive.  The streets were paved with marble, and imposing statues dominated every square.  The civic buildings were designed and constructed to last a thousand years.  Under different historical circumstances, these massive stone edifices adorned in gold and bronze, would certainly have exceeded their builders expectations.

The insides of the Forum structures were equal in elegance to the façades.  Long naves lined with colorful marble pillars - ornamented in gold - led to vast halls of enormous dimension.

When in Rome, be sure to pay a visit to the Forum ruins.  Tourist maps that provide pictorial images of what the structures looked like in the glory days are well worth the price.  With map in hand, walk the wide thoroughfares, and imagine the splendor of a thousand years past.

From wherever you enter the ancient site, you will be standing near the apex of extraordinary history.  Envision the Emperor Nero watching the Forum burn, the Apostles preaching, Julius Caesar dying at your feet, Napoleon’s campfires lighting the shadows, and Mussolini and Hitler discussing their ill-fated alliance under the warm Italian sun.

Today, millions of vacationers – from all corners of the globe – walk here and wonder how a nation that could create such grandeur could have lost its way.

For more information about the history of the various structures in the Forum, click on the names.  

Temple of Castor and Pollux, Temple of Saturn, Temple of Vesta, Temple of Venus and Roma, Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, Temple of Caesar, Temple of Vespasian and Titus

Temple of Concord, Shrine of Venus Cloacina, Basilica Aemilia, Basilica Julia

Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine, Arch of Septimius Severus, Arch of Titus, Arch of Tiberius,

Arch of Augustus, Regia, Rostra, Curia Hostilia , Roman Senate, Tabularium, Gemonian stairs

Clivus Capitolinus, Umbilicus Urbi, Milliarium Aureum, Lapis Niger, Atrium Vestae, Via Sacra, Colosseum, Column of Phocas, Tullianum

Photos © Wayne and Judy Bayliff

Although there are no historical records of the origin of Venice historians believe that due to German invasions of places such as Padula, Aquileia, and Altino refugees were forced to move from their homes and many ended up in present day Venice.  Venice begun a massive expansion due in large part to its location which served as trading center between Europe and the rest of the world.  Venice became a part of Italy after the Third Italian War of Independence in 1866.

image source

Culture

Venice became one of the most important musical centers during the 16th century due in large part to Ottaviano Petrucci who began publishing music as soon as the technology was available.  His work led to many famous musicians coming to  Venice including Giovanni Gabrial.  Venice also hosts Carnival of Venice which begins two weeks before ash Wednesday, in which Venetian masks are worn.

image source

The Sinking of Venice

Around 1400 Venetians diverted all the major waterways so they would flow into the lagoon in order to protect themselves from enemy invaders.  However historians believe this event started the sinking of Venice.  When industry began to boom in the 20th wells were constructed in the lagoon to draw water for local businesses.  The sinking began sinking at a remarkable pace and it was soon discovered that removing the water from beneath the ground was cause.  Although removing water from the well was banned the damage was done and to this day Venice is susceptible to floods due to its low elevation.

image source

image source

Transportation

Venice, unlike any other European city, is a no car zone, so the main transportation is by foot or boat.  Venice also have trains that transport people to and from surrounding cities.  If traveling by boat many tourist either use waterbusses or rowing boats known as gondolas. (pictured below)  However a 35 minute trip on a gondola will cost you between 80 and 100 Euros.  Venice does have a newly renovated airport Marco Polo International Airport which is named after the Venetian explorer Marco Polo.

image source

Climate

During the late summer months of August and September Venice has an average high of around 81 degrees Fahrenheit.  In the winter months high temperatures only reach into the low 40’s.  Rainfall is evenly spread out through the year with an average rainfall a year of around 27 inches.

image source

One of the least touristed regions in Italy is Marche. Its capital is a small, picturesque walled Renaissance hill town named Urbino which is located about 30km from Adriatic sea, and since 1998 Urbino’s “centro storico” (historic centre) is included in Unesco list of World Heritage Sites.

“Urvinum Mataurense” (translates as “the little city on the river Mataurus”) remains one of the most important towns for those that seeking the great Italian art and architecture. Since the second half of the 15th century Urbino was just another modest Roman, and later medieval city. Under the patronage of Federico da Montefeltro, duke of Urbino from 1444 to 1482 who was a very successful condottiere, a skilful diplomat and an enthusiastic patron of art and literature, the town experienced a great cultural flowering. The duke gathered around him the greatest poets, painters, and scholars of his day from all over Italy and far beyond. All those charismatic people created an exceptional urban complex, the influence of which, carried far into the rest of Europe.

The little hill town nestled on a high sloping hillside; harmoniously adapted to its physical site and to its medieval precursor is a pinnacle of Renaissance art and architecture. Only the large car parks below the town can be considered as a cacophony to the past’s aspect.

For a great first impression approach the town from Arezzo to see the fairy-tale twin towers of the huge Palazzo Ducale (Ducal Palace) that give Urbino its unmistakable skyline. Once inside, the courtyard sets the tone; a masterpiece of proportion and light carried out with the deftest of touches. Keep in mind that this palace was the first of its kind; the others you will meet across Italy are mere copies.

Among an interesting and vast network of rooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, cellars, and stables, the palace houses “Galleria Nazionale delle Marche”; a museum with a remarkable collection of paintings. Piero della Francesca’s Flagellation of Christ is included and this is one of world’s greatest and most enigmatic images. Do not leave Ducal Palace without visiting “Museo Archeologico”; the second museum inside the building complex where the visitor can meet the few traces of earlier Roman Urbinum Metaurense.

None of palace’s rooms were designed to oppress with grandeur. All were built on a human scale and decorated with glad-hearted sobriety. The Duke’s “Studiolo” is the most unusual room in the palace. His tiny study is entirely decorated in exquisite trompe l’oeil inlaid woodwork panels, some based on designs by Botticelli.

Continue your exploration of the lovely medieval town by visiting other palaces around such as “Palazzo Albani”, “Palazzo Odasi” and “Palazzo Passionei”.

And as time passes if you find yourself tired of visiting interesting buildings (!) just wander in Urbino’s beguiling streets and have a stop in the hub of the town; the animated “Piazza della Repubblica” that lies in a dip between the twin humps of a hill. There you’ll find cafes, shops, and lots of people. Many of them are students as Urbino has a university started in 1506 and it’s a center for maiolica ceramics, art, and culture.

Urbino is such a modest sized town but someone can find a considerable number of churches. In “Piazza della Repubblica” is located the Duomo (cathedral). Founded in 1021 over a 6th century religious edifice, the 12th century plan was turned 90 degrees from the current one, which is a new construction also started by Federico II. The church finished only in 1604, and had a simple plan with a nave and two aisles, but it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1789. The Roman architect Giuseppe Valadier rebuilt the building and the works lasted until 1801. The new church has a typical neo-classicist appearance, with a majestic dome.

Do not miss the really interesting small church of San Giovanni Battista. It is entirely decorated in 1416 with wall-to-ceiling frescoes by the painters Jacopo and Lorenzo Salimbeni. A few outside the region are aware of the brothers but that fact does not reduce the brilliance of their earthy vision of the life of St John the Baptist and a terrifying Crucifixion. The visitor can spot also a great number of playful small dogs in the lively scenes.

You can continue by visiting the church of Sant’Agostino which was built in Romanesque style in the 13th century, but largely modified in the following centuries; the one of San Francesco (14th century), originally a Gothic-Romanesque edifice of which an 18th century restoration has left only the portico and the bell tower; and finally the Oratory of San Giuseppe (early 16th century).

After all, if you catch yourself feeling full of architecture impressions have a stop in a rarely visited but nevertheless delightful place: The “Orto Botanico”, a small, walled botanic garden full of rare plants.

Another place the visitor can “explore” is the small fortress at the top of Urbino named Albornz; which is locally known as “La Fortezza”. This is a 14th century edifice which in the past was the defensive point for the walls. Now is a spot for great a great views of the town and surrounding hills.

Last but not least, I ought to mention that Urbino is the birthplace of the great Renaissance painter Raphael (1483). His family’s house is now a pretty little museum. A simple fresco of the Madonna and Child in one of the rooms may have been one of his earliest works.

As you leave the fairy-tale Urbino have a stop at the tombs of Duke Federico and his son, Guidobaldo, in the fine church of San Bernardino. It was built in 1491 by Francesco di Giorgio Martini and situated on the hill above the junction for the Pesaro road.

(All images by the author)

See also:

Herculaneum the Unknown

Palermo: The Capuchin Catacombs, the Museum of the Dead

Bagheria: “Villa of the Monsters”

Salvador Dali: A Photographic Journey Into an Ingenious Mind

Theatre of Epidaurus: A Marvel of Acoustics

Temple of Epicure Apollo

Galleria Ferrari