During the spring and summer of 1899, a railroad magnate named Edward Henry Harriman organized an expedition to explore the plant and animal life of Alaska. 

Among its many accomplishments, The Harriman Alaska Expedition discovered a vast fjord in the northern section of Prince William Sound.  There are many glaciers in the fjord, all lined up one after another in what resembles a never-ending spectacle of enormous ice ribbons. The explorers wanted to find a way to link each glacier with the whole. They decided to name many of the glaciers after prominent East Coast colleges – and the totality came to be known as the College Fjord. 

The first of the newly discovered glaciers were named after the schools that had representatives on the expedition – Harvard and Amherst.  They were followed by other elite schools – some of which helped to fund the expedition – Yale, Barnard, Bryn Mawr, Holyoke, Smith, Vassar, and Wellesley.  Columbia and Dartmouth also have glacier namesakes, but they are not actually located in College Fjord.  Conspicuous in its absence is a Princeton Glacier.

This is a picture of the Harvard Glacier that covers over 100,000 acres of the Chugach National Forest.  It is the second largest glacier in Prince William Sound and is located at the end of the College Fjord.  It is 1.5 miles wide and about 300 feet high at the point where it calves icebergs into the water. 

The appearance of the glaciers changes with the time of day and weather.  This photo was taken about 6 a.m. when daybreak was magically painting the natural surroundings in dreamlike shadows and hues.

The Harvard Glacier is frequently the northernmost point visited by the cruise ships sailing the Inside Passage of Alaska.  Another popular route takes passengers to Glacier Bay.  Either destination is inspiring.  

Because the members of The Harriman Expedition took hundreds of photos of glaciers, Mr. Harriman is credited with providing significant visual comparisons of how the great glaciers have changed over the course of the last century.

Click on these additional titles for information about cruising the Inside Passage of Alaska and the interesting ports of call.

Related Articles

Ketchikan: First Port of Call on the Inside Passage of Alaska
Sitka: Considered the Most Beautiful Port along Alaska’s Inside Passage
Skagway: The Northernmost Port of the Alaska Inside Passage
Cruise from Vancouver to the Inside Passage of Alaska

The town of Ketchikan is on Revillagigedo Island and lies 700 miles northwest of Seattle.  It is a burgeoning tourist destination and first port of call for many of the cruise ships that navigate the Inside Passage of Alaska.

The cruise ship pier is conveniently located right in downtown Ketchikan.  You can walk off your ship and be in a tourist shop within minutes.

Ketchikan Creek

Before the white settlers, the Tlingit Indians spent their summers fishing for salmon in the rushing cold waters of Ketchikan Creek.  Today, the winding creek provides the foundation for the wooden pilings that hold up Creek Street and its boardwalk lined with restaurants, gift shops, and art galleries. 

Mixed in among the tourist shops is a fee-for-service tram that climbs the steep hill behind Creek Street up to the Cape Fox Lodge.  The hotel has a large and impressive display of Indian artifacts – and provides a spectacular panoramic view of the town below.

There are plenty of things to doin Ketchikan.  Some of the more exceptional attractions are Creek Street, the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, and the treetop Alaska Canopy Adventure.  If you are afraid of heights, you might want to skip the latter tour.    

Totem Pole Capital

Besides being excellent fisherman, the Tlingit, along with other local tribes, are known for their distinctive and beautiful totem poles.  Ketchikan boasts the largest collection of these artistic native expressions in the world.  The local Totem Heritage Center, which is now listed on the National Historic Register, is credited with saving dozens of 19th century totem poles from abandoned villages.

The Wild Days of Ketchikan

During the gold rush, Ketchikan was the first Alaska port of entry for prospectors arriving by ship to search for riches in the gold fields. 

Many miners, far from home, were eager to sample the creature comforts provided in the little wooden buildings that lined Creek Street.

In 1903, when the growing number of bordellos proved too much for the local gentry, the town council ordered all houses of ill repute to relocate across the creek – a distance of about 75 feet.  The problem was getting to the other side of the creek.  A bridge was hastily constructed, but not liked by the miners who could now be seen as they crossed over in search of bawdy amusement.

Soon after the “relocation,” the shy, but determined fun-seekers began to navigate the creek a little to the north and out of town.  Under the cover of darkness, they made their way to the new red light district via a footpath known today as “Married Man’s Trail.”  

Prostitution was outlawed in Ketchikan in 1953, but the town is still proud of its billing as “The place where both salmon and men came upstream to spawn.”

Click on the port name for information about Sitka and Skagway on the Inside Passage of Alaska.

Photos © Wayne and Judy Bayliff

Located on 167 South Franklin Street in Alaska’s Capital city of Juneau. This three story building was built in 1913 during the Alaskan gold rush. It has 46 guest rooms and originally it was opened up as a hotel and a bordello. Today it is still up and running and it is Juneau’s longest running hotel and also one of the most haunted places in all of Alaska. Ghostly encounters have been taking place here at the Alaskan Hotel for many years now. People have reported being touched by unseen forces and others have reported feeling like someone or something is watching them even when they are all alone. Employees in the Alaskan Hotel have also reported strange things happening to them while they are cleaning the rooms of the Hotel. One of the reports state that a house keeper hung up fresh new towels in one of the bathrooms. A few minutes later she went back into the bathroom to find the towels placed nicely folded on the sink. Another worker reported seeing a ghostly figure floating in thin air at the end of the hallway on the second floor. Some of the locals here in Juneau believe that the ghost that haunts the Alaskan is that of a woman who was killed here in the 1920’s. Her and her husband came to Juneau to mine for gold. Her husband left her at the hotel, while he went out and mined. On one occasion, her husband was gone for over a month. Thinking that he was killed and never coming back. The woman was forced into prostitution to survive. When her husband came back, and found out about his wife prostituting, he murdered her. Is the mudered wife the spirit that haunts this old hotel, or is she just one of many spirits that still reside here. The Alaskan Hotel is a wonderful hotel to stay at for ghost hunters and others alike. If you are ever here in Juneau, this is a place definitely worth checking out.

Anchorage Hotel (Anchorage, Alaska)

This historic building is the oldest hotel in Anchorage. Established in 1916, it has been restored to look like it did when it was first built and it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Many guest have passed through the doors of this beautiful hotel, and a few of them have decided to stay even after their deaths. Many people have witnessed spirit activity taking place here in the Anchorage hotel. It has been reported that the spirit of a young female woman has been seen roaming the halls on the second floor. Guest have reported lights flickering, TV’s turning on and off by themselves, and the water in the bathrooms turning on by itself in some of the rooms on the second floor too. Hotel employees have also witnessed strange activity here. Late at night, the sound of someone walking up and down the stairs that lead to the front lobby has been heard on a number of occasions, but when the area is checked out there is usually no one there. The spirit of a man has also been spotted hanging around the stairs. The Anchorage Hotel is almost 100 years old now and it still is a beautiful place to visit. The comfort it offers keeps the living and the dead coming back again and again.

Denali National Park (Alaska)

One of Alaska’s most popular destinations, Denali National Park is home to Mount McKinley. The mountains highest point stands at 20,320 feet and it is the tallest part of North America. The mountain is also known as Denali, which means High One. The mountain is one of the most sacred sites in North America and tales of the supernatural on the mountain go back many centuries. It is believed that the mountain is the home of a sun shaman named Sa, who is the master of life. For many years, people have reported seeing strange and unusual things happening here at Denali. Strange lights have been seen in many parts of the national park. People have reported feeling strange sensations while on or near the mountain. And weird loud shrieking sounds have also been heard coming from the mountain. Denali National Park is a beautiful awesome place to visit and it seems that something other then mere mortals might reside here. Even if you dont experience anything unusual here, it is still one of the most amazing places on earth to visit.

Golden North Hotel (Skagway, Alaska)

The town of Skagway is 100 miles north of Juneau and is most easily accessible by boat or plane. From Whitehorse in the Yukon, follow Highway 2 south to the town. There you’ll find the three-story Golden North hotel, it has a corner cupola facing Main Street. There are two ghosts that haunt this old hotel. Employees have nicknamed one of them “Mary.” They believe she is the spirit of a young lady who died of pneumonia in her room, while waiting for her fiance to return from a gold prospecting expedition. She still haunts Room 23, where ghostly images of a woman have appeared and guests have complained of choking sensations in the middle of the night. Room 14 is haunted by a strange “light form” that moves around in the room at night. Nobody knows who, or what, it represents. Or what it is doing here, but it has been seen on a number of occasions by alot of different people.

Red Onion Saloon (Skagway, Alaska)

Built in 1897, the Red Onion Saloon was Skagway’s most exclusive bordello. In 1914 it was moved to its current position and it offered alcohol on the first floor and prostitution on the second. The building is believed to be haunted by atleast one female spirit. The ghost of the woman has been seen on the second floor on a few occasions. Foot steps have been heard coming from the second floor when no one was up there. And a strange perfume scent comes and goes from nowhere. On one night, the local police were called to the building because a employee saw the shadow of someone run pass them. Some people believe that the place might be haunted by one of the saloons past owners who just refuses to leave. Nowadays alcohol isn’t sold here but you might just run into a ghost or two if you come to this old saloon.

The state of Alaska has its share of haunted places and these are just a few examples of the hauntings that have been reported here.

If you ever dreamed of cruising Alaska’s scenic Inside Passage, which runs from Vancouver British Columbia north to Skagway, Alaska, this is the year to do it.  

Alaska is celebrating its 50th year of statehood, and at the same time, the economy has the cruise lines scampering for business – there are deals everywhere. 

When to take a cruise to Alaska

Most of the major cruise lines have Alaskan excursions that sail between the months of May and October. 

We recommend cruising the Inside Passage in May or June for two reasons.  During these months, the majestic mountains are still laden with a brilliant white blanket of winter snow.  The second reason is that it rains or snows somewhere in Alaska for more than 200 days per year – the best chance of finding some sunny days are in the months of May and June.

Who to contact  

Carnival, Princess, Royal Caribbean, NCL, and Celebrity cruise lines all offer Inside Passage cruises. 

Carnival Corporation is the largest cruise line in the world, and they are currently promoting Alaskan sailings on several of their famous brands.  Not all travelers are aware of it, but Carnival now owns Holland America, Windstar, Seabourn, Costa, and the legendary Cunard Line. 

Where to board

Popular departure ports for 7-day Alaska cruises include Seward, Whittier, Seattle, and our personal favorite Vancouver, British Columbia. 

Cruise ships depart Vancouver from The Canada Place cruise dock, which is a relatively short bus or taxi ride from Vancouver International Airport. 

If you are not traveling alone, we suggest you hire a cab for the journey from the airport to the docks.  The cost is about $12 more for a taxi than for two shuttle bus tickets, but the dock hotels are at the end of the hotel shuttle route, so a taxi is much quicker. 

No need to convert dollars  

There is no reason for a money exchange for transportation to your hotel because the cabs take credit cards, as do all the restaurants and shops near Canada Place. 

Fly early and enjoy Vancouver  

We recommend flying into Vancouver at least one day before your cruise departure date in order to relax and take in the local attractions that are within walking distance of the cruise dock.

Where to stay in Vancouver

There are two first-rate hotels on site at Canada Place and both offer a baggage transfer service to your ship.  The Pan Pacific Hotel is right in the cruise terminal building, and our favorite, the Waterfront Fairmont is directly across the street. 

We especially like the warm greeting every guest receives from Holly the Fairmont Ambassador Pup.  She is very proud – perhaps because she once received a royal pat from visiting Queen Elizabeth.

Take a walk along the water  

After you check into either of these fine hotels, ask the concierge how to get to the walkway to Stanley Park.  It’s a great leg-stretching stroll with fantastic views of the mountains and harbor.  

You will meander past the Convention Center, IMAX theatre, and enjoy the tremendous roar of the floatplanes as they depart from the adjacent dock.  

There are paths for pedestrians, cyclists, and skating enthusiasts – the pedestrian walkway is closest to the water.  

Just after you pass the yacht harbor, you will see the Lost Lagoon on your left and the Vancouver Rowing Club across a small pond area on your right.  This is a good place to turn around and return to your hotel.  By the end of your stroll, you will have walked 3.3 very pleasant and level miles. 

If you prefer more exercise, continue on past Lost Lagoon and make a right into Stanley Park.  Circle the park along the water – it’s a scenic walk that overlooks the bay and distant mountains.  The full round trip from the hotel is 7 miles. 

Where to eat  

Both the Waterfront Fairmont and Pan Pacific offer excellent dining, but if your feet aren’t too distressed from your walk along the bay, you can stroll over and sample the restaurants in old Gastown, which is less than a mile from the dock.

For those interested in much less formal (and cheaper) dining, there is an international food court almost directly beneath the Waterfront Fairmont where you will find a friendly McDonald’s and Tim Hortons, Starbucks, Subway, and sundry other fast food eateries.

 Happy travels 

Photos © Wayne and Judy Bayliff

I can honestly say that visiting Alaska was a highlight of my life. Although I was born in Fairbanks (army brat), I had not been back since I was 2 years old. So needless to say I did not remember anything of the place.

The first thing that I noticed when we got to Alaska and went shopping was the cost of living there. It was a lot more expensive there then it was here in Texas. Of course everything has to transported either by boat or plane and that in itself is expensive. Besides the cost of living we also learned that every citizen of Alaska receives a check from the Alaskan Government for oil rights. I was surprised to learn though that it is not just the Alaskan Indians that receive this but anyone that owns land and lives there year round that recieves it. We also learned that most people there live off of the land. Whether hunt for there food or fishing for it. If you are thinking about moving to Alaska it is a totally different situation than living in any other state in the United States. Not only because of the weather, which even in the summer months usually does not get above about 75 it is also a dangerous place to live and most villages do not have roads that you can travel to get to other parts of Alaska. If you do not have a boat or a plane it is almost imposible to travel. Not only do you have to worry about the cold but the animals that freely roam the state as well. Don’t get me wrong, I believe that Alaska is one of the most wonderful places in the United States and would love to live their myself.

The fishing in Alaska is awesome. Where you can go fishing for Alaskan sea crab, Salmon, (of which in Alaska they have 5 different kinds) Halibut, Northern pike, Rainbow trout and many others. If you are visiting Alaska and decide to go fishing there are a lot of places that will ship your catch home to you. If you are thinking about going the best times for fishing vary from different places but pretty much is from May to July.

If you are traveling with children then the one place that you must visit while in Alaska would be the North Pole. Where the entire town is set up as Santa Claus’ north pole. It is within driving distance from Fairbanks so it would be an easy one day trip to make. Along with the North Pole you do not want to forget visiting other great places to see. Such as Denali National Park, Glacer Bay National Park, Kenai Jford National Park and may other sites as well. Besides places to see the things to do are awesome. You should allow the kids to try to DogSled rides along with yourself of course. You can always use them as an excuse to go! Take a train ride to Canada. When we went I didn’t see much because it was so close to the drop off I tended to keep my eyes closed most of the time. But what I did see was great!! And lets not forget the Northern Lights.

If this is a vacation that you are thinking about, I think you have made a wonderful decision and hope you have the time of your life!

image source

When Should You Go?

Alaska is famed for its cold climate, and although the south of the state enjoys milder temperatures, the tourist season is still relatively short, and most people visit between May and September. It is particularly busy during the summer months, so if you wish to avoid the crowds, arriving early or late in the season is a good idea.

Early and late season also finds the scenery at its best, with the proliferation of wild flowers in the spring, and beautiful leaf colours in the fall. It can also be easier to observe the local wildlife during these times, and many hotels offer lower rates early and late in the season.

Travel Arrangements

If you haven’t already made your travel arrangements, this is obviously a first priority. You will need to decide if you prefer to take a package trip, where the transport, hotel and other arrangements are all included as part of the package, or make your own independent arrangements. Your travel agent will be able to advise you on the options available.

There are several ways to travel to and within Alaska. Cruises are always very popular among tourists, particularly those that allow for a generous amount of time on land as well. A cruise provides an excellent way to enjoy Alaska’s stunning coastline and numerous glaciers.

Guests can also visit Alaska by air. The state is well served by major national and international airlines in the peak months, and there are many smaller local and charter services that visitors can use for getting around once there.

Those who prefer car travel will find that the Alaska Highway offers a great drive, stretching from British Columbia in Canada into Fairbanks in the Interior. However, once off the beaten track, many parts of Alaska (including Juneau, the capital) are difficult or impossible to access by car, especially in the winter.

The excellent Alaska Marine Highway ferry service, which operates along 3,500 miles of coastline, is another option. Reservations are essential.

Visitors can also travel by train, and the Alaska Railroad offers a great way to see much of the state’s spectacular scenery in comfort, while stopping off at various spots along the way if desired.

Where to Stay

All of Alaska’s major towns and cities feature the kind of high end accommodation that you’d expect to find in any metropolis. Smaller towns also offer establishments with comfortable guest rooms, including small hotels, motels, lodges and bed and breakfast places. Accommodation is also available in many wilderness areas, although choice is more limited. Generally, the more out of the way your destination, the less choice of accommodation you’ll have. Some people also enjoy camping in the wilderness – this can be an enjoyable option if you love nature and are not too concerned with creature comforts!

Due to the climate, Alaska has a relatively short tourist season, so it’s important to make your reservations well in advance to be sure of having somewhere to stay. This is particularly true in the cities and large towns, and in the better quality hotels and lodges.

What to Take

It’s important to ensure that you’ll have all the essential clothing, documents and other items you need for your trip. These will include (but may not be limited to):

• Tickets and other travel documents such as your passport and visa (if needed). Travel insurance is recommended.
• Money and credit cards
• Any medical/prescription information that you may need
• Personal ID documents, including driving license if necessary
• Phone and important contact numbers
• Clothing – warm clothing is advised all year round, as it can be very cold at night and in the Interior areas. However if you’re travelling in summer, light clothing will be needed too, as temperatures can rise quite high. The best bet is to take lots of clothes that you can layer, and remove as necessary. Comfortable footwear is also a must. If you are planning to spend time outdoors hiking or enjoying other outdoor pursuits, take suitable outdoor clothing for protection against cold, wind and rain.
• Camera/binoculars/camcorder
• Toiletries, including an insect repellent
• A good guidebook or two

What to Do When You Arrive

Alaska offers a huge range of activities and attractions for visitors. What you do will depend to a large extent on the area(s) that you choose to visit – Alaska is a huge sate with a very varied geography and climate. There are many pre-arranged tours that you can book a place on, with activities to suit all tastes, or you can explore independently. Some of the popular attractions include:

• Wilderness tours
• Ferry or cruise trips along the coast
• Visiting one or more of the many National Parks, which offer numerous opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, skiing, fishing etc, and exploring the fantastic landscapes, including the vast forests, rivers, volcanoes, glaciers, mountains and valleys, as well as observing Alaska’s many wild animal and bird species
• Observing the aurora borealis in the northern and Interior areas
• Visit some of the many museums and historical sites dedicated to notable events in Alaska’s history
• Windsurfing
• Kayaking
• Skiing
• Fishing
• Dog sledding
• Enjoying the excellent shops, restaurants and cultural attractions in Alaska’s towns and cities
• Taking a plane trip – small planes are a very common means of transport within Alaska, and many companies offer sightseeing tours

Further Information

It’s a good idea to purchase at least one good Alaska guidebook to read before you go. Such publications have lots of detailed advice on all aspects of travelling to the destination in question, and as such are invaluable for Alaska trip planning purposes.

Other good sources of advice include travel agents (particularly those that specialise in Alaskan vacations), the internet, and Alaska’s own Division of Tourism and other official information-providing bodies, which include theAlaska Travel Industry Association, Alaska Visitors Center & Activities and the Northern Rockies Alaska Highway Tourism Association, among others.