Village Life: Polemi and Stroumpi, Paphos (Pafos) Cyprus
by Glynis Smy on 24/01/09 at 3:11 am
Village life in Southern Cyprus through the eyes of a British Expat.
Photograph by author
In the Paphos district of Southern Cyprus, lay the two villages of Polemi and Stroumpi. They sit approximately 480 -500 metres above sea level, (Paphos). During the summer months the humidity is less than the seaside town of Paphos, there is a gentle vineyard breeze, this encourages the town and city folk to visit family in the height of the summer. The winter period of January and February, is cold and in 2008, -5 was recorded with a forty-eight hour snowfall. The winter days are broken up with beautiful sunny ones, and the winter is short, the worst of the weather adding up to no more than two weeks and the total time period is approximately ten weeks, with the majority of days that can only be described as being ‘Autumnal’.
Photograph by author
The cold spell happens very quickly, it goes from summer to winter overnight, the cold chills the thin blooded residents. Equally, the summer arrives in much the same manner.
The two villages are agricultural and have large areas given over to the grape, the vineyards are everywhere. Sodap is one of the largest wine makers in the area, and is an important name on the island. The new winery sits on the border of the two villages, prior to it being built it was on the coast line of Paphos. It sits next to a reminder of the atrocities of war, the Polemi Concentration Camp, the camp actually sits in Stroumpi but was named by the English as The Polemi Camp.
Cockerels have no sense of time and will crow as the need takes them, village dogs bark and the farmer rises before the sun, their Tractuit trailers trundle and clang along unmade roads that lead their farms and small holdings.
Photograph by author
Chainsaws work, their sound carries on the breeze, as does the smell of fresh morning bread.
Photograph by author
The villagers live off of the land and many can be seen picking the offerings of the hedgerows.
Capers, wild pea and beans, a leafy vegetables. Chicken, Rabbits and Pigs are nurtured and slaughtered, the Pigs usually last until Easter and Christmas. Goats are used for milk, butter and cheese. The villagers fast and eat only foods allowed during the religious festivals, so sometimes it is only fruit and vegetables on the table. The Mediterranean Diet is a good one for long life and good health.
Photograph byauthor
Olive, Citrus, Apple, Apricot and Peach trees are lovingly tended. The Fig, Pecan and Mespilla fruit grow in abundance. The fruit bowl is never empty.
Goats cheese, bread, olives and seasonal fruit is the feast for lunch, washed down with a glass of vineyard wine. The working day starts at sunrise until light disappears.
At ten thirty daily, the coffee shops fill, it is time to down tools and rest awhile. The world is put to rights by the men of the village and the women gather in each others homes, gossip is the order of the day. The village falls silent during the hours of one thirty and four, it is siesta time, during the hot summer days, even the mad dog and Englishman succumb to the need for an afternoon nap.
Photograph by author
Life is relaxed, work gets done and families gather daily, their chatter echoes around the narrow streets. During the sultry summer evenings, the perfume of Jasmine, and Orange blossom add to the romance of the navy blues skies with diamonds, life is for enjoying and the villagers certainly try to do so.
Modern life and having joined the European community, is beginning to show in certain areas, village life is changing slowly, however the majority still live the slow pace they are used to. They live and are guided by the rules of the church. The Greek Orthodox influence is noticeable in the community.
Photograph by author
The community spirit in these two hillside villages is alive and well, education is catered for by good schools in Polemi, therefore families tend to stay, keeping the village alive.
Note from the author:
Photograph by author (also on Cyprus Smy Home)
Having left the UK and now living in the village of Polemi, my life has changed completely. Gone are many of the material possessions we thought were important, yes we have a car, TV and swimming pool, but we now grow our own vegetables and enjoy relaxing times when our families visit. We have no urge to go shopping for the latest ‘in’ product, we wear our clothes out. Our stress levels are lower and we have a life together sharing sunshine hours. It is not paradise, we had to work hard to show we wanted to be part of the village, and have achieved that goal. We have a good reputation ( so I am told) and lots of Cypriot friends. We laugh and cry along side of them. When the village bell tolls slowly, we know we have lost a friend, when the bells ring out joyfully, we dance at the wedding of sons and daughters.
This lifestyle is not for all and many expatriates are leaving to return to the UK, Cyprus for us however is now home.
More of my work connected to my life in Cyprus:
- Distant Hills of Time
- Canvas of Great Beauty
- When The Bouzouki Calls
- Fiery Orb Farewell
- The Mediterranean Diet
The Olive Tree
A Place of Worship, Polemi Cyprus
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42 Comments
Christine Ramsay
Jan 24th, 2009
Glynis, a brilliant article and photos. You are lucky to live such a pleasant life. I feel my life is similar here in Eastbourne now that I don’t work any more. However we don’t have your climate. I must visit Cyprus some time.
Yours
Christine
Glynis Smy
Jan 24th, 2009
Thanks Christine, if you pass by I will crack open a bottle of village red
A fix is in for the title (too many ands)
R J Evans
Jan 24th, 2009
A lovely heartwarming article! I have fond memories of Cyprus myself – especially the people – and it is great to see how you have established a life there within the local community!
papaleng
Jan 24th, 2009
What a beautiful article, and the way you describes and the photos, you’re to lucky to live in such a nice place Glynis.
Sotiris
Jan 24th, 2009
Really nice review of your town! Cyprus and Greece are the same thing! All villages are the same! I am happy that you like Cyprus!
Diane C.
Jan 24th, 2009
You live in an interesting place! Also enjoyed reading about how your priorities and stress levels have changed since moving there.
Lorna Dykstra
Jan 24th, 2009
Good work Glynis. You have captured the slow-paced rhythm of a Mediterranean village perfectly.
Jeoffrey Meister
Jan 24th, 2009
Nice article and beautiful pictures, Glynis! I really, really like the first picture; it looks like a painting.
The Quail
Jan 24th, 2009
Nice article and beautiful pictures,also very heart warming.
Glynis Smy
Jan 24th, 2009
Thanks for the comments folks.
I know oneday there will probably be houses there, but I will enjoy opening the curtains each morning.
Jeoffrey, that is the view from my house
lanne
Jan 24th, 2009
What a nice piece. I would love to go somewhere like this to live a more simple life. Not to mention the view!
Little Miss Lizzy
Jan 24th, 2009
I really enjoyed a view of cyprus from the inside. You painted a wonderful and realistic picture of a place that I really must visit someday soon. It’s hard to be accepted into any village community let alone if you are a foreigner. Nice work Glynis!
Louie Jerome
Jan 24th, 2009
What a great article. You know how much I love Cyprus!
RJ Chamberlain
Jan 24th, 2009
Sounds beautiful Glynis. RJ
Michele Cameron Drew
Jan 24th, 2009
Great article, dear lady and a great idea! Your home is so lovely. Thanks for letting us visit again.
Cheryl Sills
Jan 24th, 2009
Glynis, my plane leaves at 7:00pm, see you in 13 hours. Just kidding, you do make Cyprus and the two villages sound fabulous.
Very wonderful article about your life and the love you have of the place where you live. Having a simpler life does sound good. I imagine it is not easy to grow your own food. My grandparents owned a farm and I am still amazed at the amount of hard work it involved. Thank you for sharing this with us. You made all of us feel like we were enjoying a bit of life there, in Cyprus.
Joni Keith
Jan 24th, 2009
Glynis, thank you for taking me with you on this beautiful trip through your village. It sounds as if you live a charmed life. You sound so happy with the life you have made there for yourself. You deserve such happiness. This was a wonderful visit.
nobert soloria bermosa
Jan 24th, 2009
great post,this is the kind of place i have always wanted,thanks
PR Mace
Jan 24th, 2009
Hi Glynis,
Sounds like a wonderful way of life. I look forward to the day we can retire. I want a cabin in the mountains. Thank you for my chairside trip to Cyprus.
Wylrhyss Terrado
Jan 24th, 2009
I liked the photos…. Thanks for sharing…
Geri Ohara
Jan 24th, 2009
Glynis this is a brilliant article thankyou
Lauren Axelrod
Jan 24th, 2009
I am in Awe of this piece. So beautiful and interesting. When am I coming again? lol
Ruby Hawk
Jan 24th, 2009
It sounds like the kind of place anyone would love. I live a relaxed life for the most part but yours sounds so satisfying and homey.I am happy for you.
AC Hamilton III
Jan 24th, 2009
Awww! Such peace every time I visit one of your articles about this lovely place. Always nicely done with sincerity of heart and love for your new home and community. That’s great!
AC
Lisa Clayton Williams
Jan 25th, 2009
Really nice!! I enjoyed reading about your “adopted” village! The pictures were great too!
Inna Tysoe
Jan 25th, 2009
I am so glad you found a home like that
Inna
Glynis Smy
Jan 25th, 2009
Thanks all.
Ok now I appear to be catering for a large crowd now, so I asked the pig to move out and you see those little silver huts…The donkey will collect you from the airport..Bon Voyage!
BC Doan
Jan 25th, 2009
Wow..thank you for a wonderful trip! Beautiful photos and a warm welcome article!
Anne Lyken Garner
Jan 25th, 2009
Fantastic pictures. I wish I were there.
Christy Tuller
Jan 25th, 2009
Thank you Glynis for the trip to your home! I have truly enjoyed the visit! I only wish I could come see the area in person. Lovely photos and a wonderful description. Enjoy your life as it seems yu already are. Take care.
Juhls
Jan 25th, 2009
How lovely! Thanks for sharing your life in words and pictures. The simple life looks magical.
Moses Ingram
Jan 26th, 2009
This is a great article. Thanks.
Polly
Jan 26th, 2009
Glynis, the photos are beautiful and I know I am not supposed to, but I do envy you! I can close my eyes and imagine being there. You were right—what a coincidence, when my wish was granted before I even wished for it!
maranatha
Jan 27th, 2009
Thank you Glynis, for sharing your beautiful island home! We live in the desert and our kids grew up at that same slow pace, but somehow it has disappeared… we are working towards returning to it regardless of our surroundings.
Brian Daniel Stankich
Jan 30th, 2009
Been to Cyprus several times and love it!
Myron Edwards
Mar 9th, 2009
I would like to speak to you regarding this article – as I am looking for a similar view for a magazine I am working with please contact me ASAP myron@faceartcy.com
Katrina Van Vessem
Apr 3rd, 2009
Hi,
I really enjoyed reading about your life in Cyprus and looking at your photos how lovely it looks and what a fabulous sress free life style you now have, i found it all very interesting because our good friends and next door neighbours Marlene and Mike Wareing moved to Polemi just over 12months ago you may even know them, and like you they love their new life style.
Glynis Smy
Apr 4th, 2009
Katrina, I may have seen them about but I am useless with names
I am sure we would have bumped into each other at some point.
Thanks for all your comments and private emails.
Ann & Alex
Jul 2nd, 2009
I was in Cyprus last month I wish I had read your article before going, I am to return later this year as its my husband and my dream to retire in Cyprus, I will certainly look around Polemi, it sounds idyllic,
Ann
Glynis Smy
Jul 2nd, 2009
Ann, Thank you for reading my article. The surrounding villages are lovely too. Look out for agios Demetrianos and Phyti (fyti), they are a little higher and only 5 mins from Polemi.
Rosalind Kaliden
Oct 17th, 2009
Glynis,
Lovely article and such enticing scenery. A true antidote to our increasingly stressed lives here in the states. I do believe that we make our own stresses by the decisions we make. I am building up the courage to say”no” more often. Midday napping has always been one of the little luxuries that I’ve long claimed as an essential. It actuallly divides the day into two high energy segments.
How do you manage the language differences? Are more young Cypriots bi-lingual? Obviously, the computer and the worldwide web have come to Cyprus. That alone makes our world so much smaller and adapting to a new lifestyle that much easier.
I applaud your determination and bravery. The rewards seem well worth the sacrifices you have made. Be well, be blessed and happy writing!
Rosalind
Glynis Smy
Oct 18th, 2009
Thank You Rosalind
About 90% of the Cypriots speak English, the Internet has arrived and it is taught in schools, so we do ok with the language barrier. I learnt a little Greek out of respect, it is hard but appreciated by those who hear me.
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