Trifter

Image via Wikipedia

So what prompted my recent long weekend in Prague? Romance. Eight years ago, almost to the day, I celebrated my 21st birthday in the elegant and enchanting capital of the Czech Republic – a romantic gesture from my partner. Now, eight years on, we returned with a good friend who is just starting a relationship with a Czech national and who invited us to join them.

Not as much had changed in the interim as I had imagined. Yes, everything is a little more expensive and commercial than it was, but then isn’t that true of every major city? Some of the rustic, traditional Czech bars and restaurants I remember from before have been replaced by chic, metropolitan café-bars where you are encouraged to sip cocktails or latte, rather than swill local beer; but they’ve not disappeared altogether and newcomers to Prague will be impressed by the pride that local people have in their history and culture.

A glance from the enormous, ancient castle – one of the largest in the world – will demonstrate why Prague is known as the ‘City of a Hundred Spires’. Churches and domed roofs as far as the eye can see provide a multi-coloured landscape in which almost every architectural movement of the last millennium is represented. Indeed, the castle itself has been renovated and partially rebuilt a number of times, each new occupant instilling its personal style and taste on the buildings. The castle is now the official seat of Vaclav Havel, President of the Czech Republic, and home to the nation’s crown jewels, among other treasures.

Other historical highlights include the Old Palace, where Empress of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Maria Theresa once resided, and Wenceslas Square, which seems to have played host to most of the political uprisings of the last century. Wander across the Charles Bridge, avoiding portrait painters and knick-knack sellers of course, and you will come face to face with statues of the major figures in Czech history.

The opportunities for dining are almost limitless and you will find most international cuisines represented somewhere. One guide book I read before travelling expressed the somewhat negative opinion that Communism had had a devastating effect on Czech cuisine and that the most that could be said of it was that it is hearty. Whilst I admit that a cuisine based around roasted meats (often pork, chicken and beef) and bread dumpling may not be to everybody’s taste or may simply be too heavy for some, in my experience the food is simple and flavoursome, and its rustic charm deserves to be honoured in a world which is becoming increasingly obsessed with nutrition rather than taste.

My restaurant recommendation for a truly sensational meal is ‘V Zatisi’. With cooking and hospitality at a level you might expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris, this restaurant was a shining example of how to present Czech cuisine in a fresh, modern way – manageable portions, innovative flavour combinations, stylish design and wine pairings – without losing sight of the rustic, unpretentious nature of traditional Czech cooking. With prices a little above average for Prague, but nowhere near what you might pay for a similar dining experience in London or Paris, this is an opportunity not to be missed.

Entertainment and nightlife take many different forms – from grand opera, theatre and cinema, to pubs, clubs and strip joints! I sampled as much culture as I could in my few days in Prague, taking in pubs, clubs (including some gay-friendly clubs – now not such a rarity in Prague) and culminating in a wonderful afternoon at the Prague State Opera House, a magnificent, opulent building with a varied programme of opera, classical music, ballet and modern dance. I really recommend making the effort to go and see something at either the State Opera or the National Theatre – even if this isn’t your usual idea of a night out – as you can only visit these building if you have a ticket to a performance.

Prague is an intriguing mixture of old imperial glory, tempered by Communist starkness and heightened by modern, chic culture. There really is something to suit all tastes and plenty to do for a long weekend or longer if desired. Don’t miss the opportunity to explore its charm for yourself.