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Unlike its Provençal counterparts, Marseille has resisted gentrification. It’s this rough-and-tumble edginess that gives it charm – coves and sun-baked beaches beat to the drum of neighboring North Africa like no other European city. The fusion of cultures is best experienced in thronging street markets, Moroccan souk-like bazaars, and fresh catches offered along the Vieux Port’s centuries-old fish market. Across the city there’s a lively African vibe, most notably in the vibrant street markets and the hilly district of Le Panier. The narrow streets, steep stairways and ancient, pastel-coloured houses give the city its rich texture.

Although part of the region of Provençe, Marseilles has a mysterious soul of its own. Founded in 600 B.C. by the Greek sailors of Phocaea, this city is the second largest in France and the country’s largest commercial port. In the time of the French colonies, the economy of Marseille was dominated by its role as a port of the French Empire, linking the North African colonies of Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia with France. Marseille has always been the gateway to the Mediterranean, contributing to its lengthy history of being not so French. Marseille is a city that is proud of its differences from the rest of France. Yet that which makes it unique has historically made it suspicious to the French. Always a port city, Louis XIV built two forts on either side of the harbor, and wary of the city’s alliances, pointed the fort guns towards the city, rather than the water. Marseille’s strong support of the French Revolution meant Louis was correct – the soldier’s serenade on the march to Paris later became known as La Marseillaise (and today is the national anthem). The city feels a few steps behind its counterparts along the French Riviera, a welcome bit of shade along a gleaming coast staked to the reputations of cities like Nice and Cannes. Marseille continues to fly below the radar much to its benefit – the city continues to build its reputation as dynamic destination for those who crave more local subsistence than sunbathing. 

With champagne-colored terracotta buildings the scattered around the seascape, Marseille is alive with a perceptible and palpable energy. The polite and graceful Vieux Port, home to France’s most authentic fish market, is the hub of city life. Guarded by the 12th-century Fort St-Jean on the north bank and the later Fort St-Nicolas on the south, the quai de Rive Neuve also contains the Thé;âtre National de la Criée, converted from old fish auction rooms. It’s a striking juxtaposition to the surrounding cityscape. Here is where you’ll also find the city’s most raucous nightspots. This particularly creative area was integral in the city being chosen to be European Capital of Culture in 2013 (jointly with the Slovakian town of Košice). 

North of the Vieux Port is the hilly district of Le Panier, the oldest part of the city and traditionally the first stop for immigrants (and tourists). Running east from the Vieux Port, La Canebière is the city’s main street where chic is always shabby. Just south is the bohemian Cours Julien – the city’s most youthful area and home to a cute collection of fashion boutiques, bookshops, terrace café;s and music venues. 

Hearty travelers can experience the attractions and historic sites of Marseille in a few leisurely days. The sun-bleached white turrrets of Château d’If, the 16th-century island prison immortalised in Alexandre Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo, has traded its convicts for seagulls and salamanders and is worth a visit for the folklore and fresh seawater. The 20-minute ferry leaves every hour from the Vieux Port’s quai de la Fraternité.

For those keen to climb, the Abbaye de St-Victor is a fascinating double-decker church that was once one of the most powerful abbeys in the South. Twisting streets and steps will also take you to the city’s extraordinary neo-Byzantine landmark: Notre-Dame de la Garde. One can climb to 162 meters above sea level to visit the church – be sure to take a moment to admire the cliffs. 

Marseille’s main cultural attraction, the Opera House, is located at the very heart of the city near the Old Port and the Canebière. Its architectural style and 6-7 operas per season make it a soothing reprieve from high-altitude exploration. 

But to truly discover the uniqueness steeped into the character if this fine city, abandon the center of town and explore the one of the hundred-or-so quartiers – each of these little Provencal villages welcome visitors with their own vibrant hues of West Indian fabrics, Arabic music and North African cuisine. A truly multicultural city, Marseille offers tastes of both ancient and modern cultures of the entire Mediterranean. http://www.chrislumsdon.com