Trifter

I would like to share with you one of my favourite places. The Englischer Garten (English Garden) in Munich is the largest urban park in Germany, and one of the most pleasant central parks of any city in the world.   Ever since my first visit to the Bavarian capital in 2005, when I became enthralled by what  I saw, I have made a point of spending at least a day in the Englischer Garten whenever I visit the city. I just love strolling along one of its many paths, walking at times through mature woodland, before emerging again into brightly lit areas of parkland. What is more, unlike London’s Hyde Park where it is difficult to escape the noise of the traffic, in the Englischer Garten it is hard to believe that one is in the middle of a large metropolitan city.

General View across the Englischer Garten

Despite its name, the Englischer Garten was conceived by an American called Benjamin Thompson. Thompson had sided with the British during his own country’s war of independence, and had subsequently been forced to flee the newly independent United States. He ended up in the service of the Bavarian King, Karl Theodor, who awarded him the title Count von Rumford.

Things weren’t looking too good for the Bavarian monarchy back in the late 1780’s. A poor harvest had led to widespread hunger and mounting discontent. Anxious to avoid a repeat of what had just happened to his contemporary, Louis XVI of France, Theodor commissioned Thompson to come up with something that would quieten the rebellious Bavarians. Rumford set up soup kitchens and instigated a series of welfare measures that helped alleviate the worst of the famine, but his chief stroke of genius was to persuade the king to set aside a portion of his game reserve, along with an area of swamp along side the banks of the river Isar on the outskirts of Munich. The swamp was to be drained and the whole area developed into a huge public park. The area was landscaped and laid out in the natural English style (hence the name), rather than the more formal French style of landscaping. Although the park was Thompson’s idea, it was designed and laid out by Ludwig von Sckell, and is a prime example of a classical landscape park.

The Englischer Garten was officially opened in 1792, and Rumsford and his park were an immediate success. The grateful Bavarians even named a soup after him, (Rumsfordsuppe).  In 1837, the Monopteros, a mock Greek temple, was built on an artificial hill.

Monopteros – Englischer Garten

Today the park occupies an area of 922 acres (373 hectares), and is three miles long and just over half a mile across at its widest point. There are three streams flowing through it, in addition to the Isar which forms the eastern boundary of the park. On hot summer days it seems as though half of Munich has decamped here to soak up the sun, jog or cycle along its many paths, or to bathe in the streams

A Cool, Welcoming Glass of Beer

The other great delights that the park has to offer are its beer gardens, of which there are several. Probably the best known is the Chinesischer Turm, so-called because the 7,000 odd seats are arranged in front of a 50 foot, multi-tiered, wooden pagoda. This structure acts as the stage for a Bavarian oompah band on weekend afternoons. All Munich life seems to gather here, with people from all age groups and all walks of life. The beer is from Hofbräu, one of Munich’s favourite breweries.

Chinesischer Turm

A bit further into the Englischer Garten is Seehaus, which overlooks the idyllic Kleinhesselohe Lake. Boats can be hired from the nearby boat-house, and are an ideal way of working up a thirst prior to visiting the beer garden. The beer here is from Paulaner, one of Munich’s largest breweries. There are two other beer gardens slightly to the north of the Kleinhesselohe Lake. They are Osterwald Garten and Hirschau (both Spatenbräu). I haven’t actually visited these two beer gardens, as I never seem to get beyond the first two!

View Across Kleinhesselohe Lake.

My son and I have just returned from an eight day holiday in Munich, and spent a day and a half in the park. We visited the Chinesischer Turm twice; once early evening and on the second occasion early afternoon. On our first visit the place was heaving, it being a Friday evening. Things were a little more relaxed on our afternoon visit, but it was a baking hot day and we were glad to find a shady spot under one of the many chestnut trees. As we through the Englischer Garten that  day people were pick-nicking, bathing in the streams, soaking up the sun (some completely naked!). Others were cycling, walking their dogs or just strolling through the grounds. At the southern entrance to the park, some hardy souls were surfing in the rapids where the streams converge.

Surfing the Rapids

Of course Munich is much more than just the Englischer Garten, and the city is well worth a visit in its own right. Not only is it Germany’s third largest city, it is the city where most Germans say they would like to live. Munich is sometimes described as “Italy’s northernmost city”, and the city’s architecture and relaxed lifestyle certainly match this description. The Alps are only 30 miles away and there are numerous lakes and picturesque villages that are just a short drive away.

Munich though is also a city of culture. For over 900 years it has been the capital of Bavaria, once a proud and independent kingdom, and a place which still describes itself as the “Free State of Bavaria”. Over the course of this period Bavaria’s ruler’s amassed treasures, collected fine works of art and constructed magnificent palaces and castles in which to house and display their collections. It is also a beery centre of culture, and can justifiably claim to be the “Beer Capital of the World”.

Go there and enjoy yourself, but when you do, make sure you pop into the Englischer Garten.