Trifter

The Greek island of Skopelos in the Western Aegean has long been a favourite of ours.  Since our first visit in 1997 we’ve been drawn back many times, even holding our wedding there a few years ago.  Obviously we weren’t the only ones to think it would be the perfect setting for a wedding.  Last year Hollywood film-makers chose it as Mamma Mia’s island.

We were there in September last year whilst the filming was taking place so it was great to share in the anticipation in June this year when everyone crowded into the tiny open-air cinema to watch the Greek premiere. 

The scenery needs no enhancement for the big screen.  The locals proudly tell visitors that in 1997 the Biopolitics International Organisation awarded Skopelos the title “Green and Blue Island.”

After the initial excitement the islanders took the Hollywood stars in their stride and were soon referring to them like old friends. “Meryl” had eaten at this or that taverna, and “Pierce” had been seen buying jewellery and local honey for his wife.

There was Meryl now up on the screen, driving like a Greek, weaving chaotically around hairpin bends on an unmade road that was little more than a goat-track. 

There was great excitement as familiar landmarks appeared. There was Kastani, the beautiful secluded beach the film crew made their own, not quite so secluded or quiet with Julie Walters, Colin Firth and the rest, dancing and belting out Abba songs for all they were worth.  Feet started tapping and each number was greeted with a round of applause, in spite of the general agreement that Pierce Brosnan was no Bjorn when it came to singing!

Skopelos has an abundance of gorgeous white sand and shingle beaches.  You might have to walk a bit but it’s worth it when you pitch your umbrella in your own remote corner.  You can cool off after your trek with a swim in bright turquoise sea so clear you’ll see your shadow below as you swim.

And there was the tiny white monastery of Agios Ioannis perched high on the rock where the film wedding was to take place.  The director was turned down, firmly but good-naturedly, when he asked the local volunteer extras to sprint up the steep mountain road.  In this heat?  In these shoes?

At 11.30 pm, when the film had ended and we’d all mopped our tears of laughter at the antics of the stars at the end – I won’t spoil it for you if you haven’t yet seen it but don’t leave as soon as the credits come up, you’ll be missing a treat – everyone headed out to eat.

There are lots of great restaurants and tavernas to choose from.  You can eat and drink Shirley Valentine style – remember that?  Try Pablo’s at Agnondas – your table will be set right at the edge of the sea.  It’s a great vantage point to watch the sunset and the fried calamari is to die for. 

Or try Perivoli in town where Reginos conjures a wonderful array of dishes.  Here your table is in his garden where he grows all his own vegetables.  The ceiling is made of vines and if you visit when the grapes are harvested you will be given a bunch to accompany dessert – I can highly recommend his almond cake.  I think Meryl can too, I saw her sampling some!