Trifter

Venice is a magical city; a place where the past and the present intermingle to create a city which is like no other. It is one of those places that you have to visit at least once in your life. With Venice there are no half measures: you either love it or hate it. Venice is a unique city; built entirely on a series of small islands in the Adriatic, Venetians literally live on the water’s edge. All transportation in the city is either on foot or on some type of water-craft. In its heyday Venice was a powerful maritime republic ruled by a Doge. Its riches were derived from its command of the trade routes to the East. In Venice one can find an eclectic mixture of architecture: Byzantine, Baroque and Gothic styles rub shoulders side by side.

My first visit to Venice was memorable. We took the ferry from the mainland and approached Venice by sea. Having visited Venice a second time and approached it from land, I can say that the water route is the best way to see the city for the first time. Chugging through the Venice lagoon, the expanse of the water stretches before you. Then, almost out of nowhere, you can see the spires of Venice rising out of the blue water. The ferry approaches and the buildings get closer and landmarks are more distinguishable. Soon one can make out the domes of St Mark’s basilica and the world famous Campanile. The ferry berths on the quay a short distance from St Mark’s Square. From there a short walk will take you to the main square of Venice.

The Bridge of Sighs and The Doge’s Palace

On your way you can stop to admire the Famous Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs). This bridge connects the old prison rooms to the interrogation chamber in the Doge’s Palace and convicts on their way to imprisonment could get a last view of Venice from its windows. Adjacent to the Bridge of Sighs is the Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale di Venezia). This magnificent building is in the Gothic style and used to be the residence of the Doge of Venice. A visit to the Palace and the adjoining prison will give the visitor an interesting insight into the past magnificent history of this maritime republic. The upper rooms of the Palace also provide a magnificent view of the Venice Lagoon and of the island of Giudecca.

 The Doge’s Palace

 Photograph by my husband Darin Dykstra

Piazza San Marco and the Basilica of San Marco

On one side of the Doge’s Palace runs the Piazzetta which leads to the magnificent basilica of San Marco and to the most famous square in Venice: Piazza San Marco. The basilica of San Marco is said to house the remains of St Mark, one of the writers of the four gospels. The basilica is in the Byzantine style and its onion-shaped cupolas are reminiscent of the churches of the Orient.

 Piazza San Marco & St Mark’s Basilica

 Photograph by my husband Darin Dykstra

The interior is lavishly decorated with dazzling golden mosaics which clothe the domes, walls and floor. The earliest date back to the 12th century and are the work of mosaicists from the East. Another treasure worthy of mention inside the basilica is the Pala d’Oro: a jewel-encrusted altar-piece made up of 250 enamel paintings on gold foil enclosed in a gilded silver frame. Further treasures may be viewed inside the Mueseo Marciano. An interesting feature inside the church is a small channel into which water can drain whenever Venice floods.

Piazza San Marco is the home of thousands of pigeons. For one Euro you can purchase a small bag of seeds for the pigeons who will then alight on various parts of your body to eat the seeds out of your hands. The birds are quite tame and might decide to land on your head even if you do not feed them. The Piazza is lined with cafeterias, the most famous two being Florian’s and Quadri, which usually have musicians playing while you sip on a very expensive espresso or cappuccino. Described by Napoleon as “the most elegant drawing room in Europe”, Piazza San Marco is usually crowded with tourists and Venetians alike. The former are usually drawn to the architecture and ambience while the latter use it as meeting point and a place to stop and have a chat.

 The Campanile

The famous Campanile of San Marco is also situated in this piazza. For a small fee, you can go to the top of the campanile and enjoy a 360º view of Venice. The original Campanile collapsed suddenly in 1902 and the present building is an exact replica of the original.

 The Campanile

 Photograph by my husband Darin Dykstra

The Rialto Bridge

To the left of St Mark’s basilica a series of narrow streets lead you to the Rialto Bridge. These crowded streets full of shoppers are filled with expensive boutiques, such as Armani and Valentino, and tiny souvenir shops crammed with the colourful glass that Venice is so famous for. The Rialto bridge was completed in 1591 and consists of two inclined ramps which lead up to a central portico. The ramps are covered and carry rows of shops. The bridge offers a magnificent view of the Gran Canal and is usually crowded with tourists trying to take a picture of the widest canal in Venice. It is one of only four bridges that span the Gran Canal and it is also the oldest.

 The Rialto

 Photograph by my husband Darin Dykstra                       

Situated in the San Polo district, this area is also home to the Rialto markets, most notably the Pescheria (fish market) from where the locals can daily buy fresh fish and seafood. Also in this area is the vast Gothic church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.

Other Venice Attractions

While a visit to the places I mentioned above is a must if you are holidaying in Venice, the real magic and charm of the city can be found by exploring the backwaters of areas such as Dorsoduro. This area is home to two other less well known squares: Campo Santa Margherita and Campo San Barnaba which provide a less crowded place to sit down and relax or eat your gelato. Each street and alley in Venice will lead you to a hidden gem and the best way to explore the city is to wear a good pair of walking shoes and lose yourself amongst the canals and narrow alleys.

For art lovers there is the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Both of these museums are in Dorsoduro.

Ethereal, enticing and everlasting, Venice will work its spell on those that visit. Its lure is unmistakable; its beauty unparalleled. Its attraction lies in the fact that it has remained, for the most part, untouched. Venice has not adapted to the ages. It is we who have to adapt to Venice. Love it or hate it, the city will mark you like no other.  While parts of it are decaying and it is slowly sinking back into the Adriatic, it will forever smile down on us mere mortals and wear with pride the title of: Serenissima.

Read a story inspired by Venice

For other attractions in the Venetian Lagoon go to:

Italy: Murano and Burano