Trifter

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So after years of going on holiday with family and friends, and then a couple of years without a proper holiday, I decided it was time to head out alone.  A solo traveller.  Away from the comfort zone.  Time to explore!

Austria was the choice of the moment – German language, and a place I have loved for years.  Not to mention the stonkingly cheap deal of around £250 for a weeks half board, including flights, to St Johann in Tirol.  A bonus of travelling alone – you can go where the deals are cheap and not worry about the holiday meeting everyone’s tastes.

Now I really had no idea what to expect from going on holiday alone.  Was I going to be bored? Were the other people there the type of people I would get on with? Well I needn’t have worried.  I can’t think of a better place to go on holiday alone when not using a specialised solo traveller agency.

Lets start with the people.  Everyone was there for the same reason – to relax, do some walking, and enjoy the mountains.  Ages ranged from early 30’s (yours truly included!) to late 60’s, and possibly older.  But, literally every single person there was friendly and only too willing to let you sit down for a drink and a chat, or to join them on their walk the next day.

Now, boredom.  I thought that would be a big issue for the solo traveller, but I don’t think I was bored at all during the week.  There is plenty to do in the area, from guided mountain walks, to cycling, canoeing, white water rafting, swimming, and even golf.  Funnily enough, the only one of that list that I tried was the guided mountain walks.

George, the guide, was fantastic.  At the Alpine School, part of his course was to take tourists on these walks, which varied from the easy meander around a herb garden, to the more strenuous 7 hour walk up and down the mountains.  I only did two of the walks, but both of them were amazing.  Taken at a pace that doesn’t feel like you are stood still, but slow enough to enjoy the beautiful panorama. 

The knowledge held by these guides is phenomenal.  I now know which herbs to use for foot fungus, and even which tiny little flower contains more vitamin c than a lemon.  I did question their knowledge at one point when it appeared we were lost high on the mountainside, but soon enough they had their bearings again and the valley bottom was calling.

Walking alone in the Alps isn’t something to be done by those that can’t read maps (or follow marked paths!) and don’t have the right equipment for the changeable alpine weather.  But, as long as you are prepared, you really can get out into the middle of nowhere, with only the sounds of nature for company and if you’re lucky a sighting of an Eagle or a Marmot.  As happened at one point though, I wouldn’t suggest walking alone in cloud with visibility of less than 10 meters, very very easy to get lost!

Now, the food.  What can one say? It was absolutely lovely.  If you’re a vegetarian there is little choice – the staple food for Austrians is meat and potato.  The meat is usually pork, although if you’re lucky you will find the odd place that does a real Wiener Schnitzel – made of Veal, not Pork or Turkey.  Delicious!

The hotel was a right find!  Slap bang in the middle of the town, opposite an imposing twin spire church, and was the place that locals go when they are eating out.  Not a particularly lively bar, but typical Austrian décor with wooden U shaped bench seating areas.  Just across from the hotel were a couple of pubs, one of which was definitely favoured by the towns younger population and I can imagine is absolutely jumping in the winter with all the skiers there.  Oh, and as a bonus, the hotel made their own Grillwurstl (Austrian sausages) – very nice they are too!

If St Johann gets a bit small should bad weather arrive, there’s plenty of places to visit in easy reach thanks to the wonderful Austrian railways.  You can get to Kitzbuhel in just under 10 minutes, and Innsbruck is a further hour away.  I would recommend a visit to both of these – some of the architecture is just stunning.  Innsbruck, btw, is renowned for its Gothic architecture.

Also in the area is a wildlife park, swimming lakes, and a Jurassic mountainside, showing how the valleys were created during the ice age, and even some dinosaur fossils.  The latter one does require a cable car to get to, unless you’re feeling particularly fit, but is worth the trip.

Getting around this area is simple.  If you buy a 3-7 day lift pass, you get free travel on the busses in the area (A special mention to the British bus driver who completely threw me as I tried to get tickets in German…).  The busses cover the majority of the 5/6 valley regions close by, but can be a bit few and far between the further from St Johann or Kitzbuhel you get.

Language needn’t be a problem in Austria.  Most people under the age of about 50 speak perfectly good English, but this doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t try to speak some German.  It’s a liberating feeling trying a new language and having the local inhabitants understand you!  At least learn to ask in German whether they speak English!

One treat not to miss is the wonderful mountain huts.  Open in the summer, you find wonderful places to have a drink and a bite to eat.  Indeed, some hikers plan their routes around the huts!  If you’re feeling particularly adventurous you can stay overnight in some of the huts, to continue your hiking from there the next day.  Freshly made cheese and local meats seem to be the staple diets of these huts, but a lot can be said for sitting at the top of a mountain enjoying the view, and the wonderful feeling of well being.

Would I recommend that other solo travellers head to St Johann In Tirol? Absolutely.  Everyone is so friendly, tourists and locals alike, its hard to not feel at home after only a couple of hours.   For those that haven’t visited the Alps yet, get out there and experience one of the most beautiful regions of Europe as soon as you can.