Trifter

Every August, Scotland’s capital is transformed into the largest arts festival in the world. For three weeks the city sees its population of around 450,000 double as performers and tourists from every corner of the map descend on the so-called ‘Athens of the north’.

The Edinburgh Festival first came to being in 1947 as part of a post-war effort to ‘provide a platform for the flowering of the human spirit’. The “Official” Festival is a programme of events in the fields of theatre, opera, music and dance. While the official festival is a popular and successful event, it is not the part that is best known around the world.

The original festival in 1947 was effectively gate-crashed by a group of eight theatrical companies who put on their own unofficial events. This movement grew in following years and came to be known as the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. As a resident of the City of Edinburgh (and a veteran of many festivals) I would argue that it is the Fringe that really brings the crowds to town.

The reasons for the creation of the Fringe and the differences between it and the Festival can be explained in varying ways, it all depends on your point of view. The Official Festival organisers would probably tell you that, historically, the Fringe grew out of sheer enthusiasm from people inspired to put on their own shows in addition to official events. Others will point to a class divide; with the official festival being seen as pro-establishment and elitist, while the Fringe is affordable, working class entertainment. It could simply be explained as appealing to different audiences; those who would spend their evening listening to Masaaki Suzuki conduct Handel’s Rinaldo choosing the Festival, while those who would prefer a few pints of beer while watching the world’s top comedians compete for the coveted Perrier Award choosing the Fringe.

So now that I’ve got past the introduction of what the Edinburgh Festival is, what would be my advice to would-be visitors to my fair festival city?

Hotels I’d recommend for different budgets and tastes

Edinburgh city centre it fairly compact for a major European capital, so if you’re staying in a hotel then anything near the centre will leave you with easy access to most potential Festival venues and other tourist attractions.

Five Star Grand Experience:

The Scotsman Hotel (www.theetoncollection.com) This stunning building has one of the most beautiful views of the city imaginable as it towers over Waverley Station. It used to be the HQ of the city’s most famous newspaper title of the same name. The restaurant is superb.

Five Star Ultra-chic:

Tiger Lily (www.tigerlilyedinburgh.co.uk) At the west end of George Street, Conde Nast Traveller called it ‘one of the 65 coolest hotels in the world’ High class boutique hotel rooms above a quality restaurant and bar, with a trendy nightclub in the basement. Let’s just say those who fill the bar and club are not scruffy!

Four Star High Fashion:

Le Monde (www.lemondehotel.co.uk) Gorgeous boutique hotel with real style. Located at the east end of George Street which is the heart of sophisticated night life in the city, you’re at the heart of everything and doing it in style!

Three Star Party Central:

Spiegel Apartments (http://www.festivalapartment.com) One of the most popular attractions of the Festival for the locals is the Spiegeltent. A garden area in the heart of the city is turned into an open-air bar. All through August it’s jumping with life and a must visit. These self-catering apartments are right there!

The Obligatory Hotel Chain:

Premier Inn, Edinburgh Central (www.premierinn.com) you know what you get from a major chain and this is a chain who market themselves on good quality at affordable prices. This hotel is located next to the College of Art and still right in the heart of the city

Getting around town

In 2007/08 some major work started to install a tram system in the city centre. This project is due to complete around 2011. However, it’s not really needed and most of the locals aren’t entirely enthusiastic about it. The public transport network is good though. Lothian Buses have regular services that pass all festival venues. A trip from one side of town to the other will cost you only £1.10. At the moment that’s about $1.80.

Taxis in Edinburgh are fairly plentiful. At peak times they can be hard to come by, so if you’re out for the night and plan a taxi back to your hotel, think about booking ahead for a pick up. The city centre cabs are black, just like those in London. The average journey between two city centre points would cost you around £10-15 ($17-$25)

If it’s a nice night then you might prefer a ride in a rickshaw! All through the summer you’ll find guys (and some girls) pedalling furiously to transport revellers through town in the open air. Cheaper than a taxi and a lot more fun.

Not to be missed

Spiegeltent (www.spiegeltent.net): As mentioned previously, this is a great place to sample the atmosphere of the Festival night life, as well as a great place to chill out with a cool drink in the afternoon sunshine. Located on George Square Garden, near the University buildings, it’s not appearing in 2009 due to scheduled maintenance on the site, but will be back!

The Pleasance (www.pleasance.co.uk/edinburgh/): A tradition of mine and many other locals and festival veterans. The Pleasance is a courtyard and open air bar, surrounded on all sides by buildings that house Comedy Festival venues. There’s a box office in the courtyard and flyers everywhere advertising the acts on. While the big name comedians tend to sell out weeks in advance, many people traditionally head to the Pleasance on an evening for a few drinks and then choose an act to go and see from those available. Some are hits, some are misses but you always remember that year you unearthed a future star!

The Udderbelly (www.underbelly.co.uk): Just around the corner from Spiegeltent, in Bristo Square, you’ll find an unusual sight… A huge purple upside-down cow! It’s actually a tent, housing bars and comedy venues. Some of the best acts in town perform here.

Princes Street Gardens: You can’t fail to find the Castle, as it dominates the skyline in the city centre. If you find the castle then you’ll find the gardens below it. When the sun is shining, these gardens are a seriously heart-warming and relaxing place to take a stroll. Buy an ice cream and lie out on the grass. During the festival there are regular street performers and bands playing on the bandstand. Never a lack of things going on and lots of art galleries, museums and other tourist attractions in the area.

Edinburgh festival 2009 started this week and runs to the end of the month. Are you coming!? If you are, or you plan to in future and have any questions about the city or the events then leave a comment here and I’ll do my best to answer. Or if you have any tips of your own, as a resident or past visitor… Pass it on!