Trifter

Tour De California

Traveling north along the Pacific Coast, climbing to the historic gold-mining town of Julian, and then dropping 2,100 feet into the desert, Dan Lynch explored California with Bike Escapades, a company that arranges several tours a year that combine scenic and historic cycling with luxurious accommodations.  It was February, the perfect time for Dan to take a break from the cold northeast.  “Just two days ago, I was shoveling snow back in Saratoga Springs.  Now I’m watching surfers and sail boats.”

The group of 15 bikers of various ages and abilities was to meet on February 22 at the Catamaran Resort in San Diego.  Dan found out that the Tour de Californiawas running the last day of its race just a little north of there and made plans to go out a day early to catch some of the action.  After an exciting start in Rancho Bernardo, Dan and his friend Debbie Kelleher jumped in a rental car and joined the chase through the canyons and into Escondido to watch the racers as they came charging to the finish line.

Dan took some great photos of the race and collected the autographs of world-class racers Levi Leipheimer, Jen Voight, George Hincapie, Floyd Landis and seven time Tour de France winner Lance Armstrong.  He had so much fun that he plans to take the trip again next  year and get out earlier to see more of the Tour de California. 

After the race, Dan and Deb—still giddy from witnessing this exciting event—headed for the first stop on the California cycling tour.  The Catamaran Resort is just a block from the Pacific Ocean, and the boardwalk in the late afternoon was full of bike riders and joggers waiting for the picture perfect sunset.  The grounds of the resort are dotted with waterfalls, fountains and gardens filled with eclectic plants from around the world, as well as exotic birds and animals.  The gardens are home to 30 varieties of hibiscus plants and nearly 100 species of palm trees.  The view from the top of the main tower commands a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding area and offers the opportunity for stunning sunsets.  The Catamaran resort provides a luxurious starting point for the tour as the group explored Mission Bay, La Jolla and San Diego.

“[There are] ponds next to the walkways stocked with exotic fish, ducks, geese and swans from all over the world,” said Dan of the Catamaran Resort.  “It is a beautiful resort and I highly recommend it.  First, class all the  way.”           

The Pacific                                                                           

After checking in and getting sized for their bicycles, the riders began by cruising through Mission Bay.  Mission Bay Parkis the largest man-made aquatic park in the country.  It is a popular spot for wakeboarding, jet skiing and sailing.  With miles of well-maintained paths and beautiful beaches to admire while pedaling, it’s also perfectly suited for cycling. 

“Riding our bikes up the coast from San Diego was very exciting,” said Dan.  “On the left, you had the beautiful and powerful Pacific Ocean and on the right, you could admire the unique architecture of Southern California.  Every once and a while, we would just stop and consider the vastness of the blue Pacific.”

Once the riders got to La Jolla, they split up into those that wanted to stay and enjoy the sun, the beautiful beaches and the cliffs and those that wanted to continue on to Torrey Pines State Reserve, 2,000 acres of never-developed land within the San Diego city limits.  Those that stayed on the beach were able to observe Canadian artist and fellow cyclist, Penny Coupland as she painted her vision of the Pacific Ocean.    

The Mountains

After a restful night at the Catamaran Resort, the cyclists headed for Julianat an altitude of about 3,900 feet in the Laguna Mountains.  A booming gold rush town in 1869, Julian is one of the few that were not abandoned when the rush died out.  Instead, the settlers stayed and maintained the small town ambiance that makes Julian a popular mountain getaway.  The cycling group lodged at the historic Julian Gold Rush Hotel, the town’s only designated landmark.  There wasn’t a lot of time for fishing, hiking, shopping, horseback riding or panning for gold, but these are popular activities for tourists in the area. 

The next morning, the group headed for the desert and the Borrego Ranch Resort & Spa, the next resort on the tour. As the cyclists climbed up to Ranchita at 4,200 feet above sea level, the scenery was spectacular.  Dan and Deb stopped often to absorb the breathtaking scenery, and Deb said, “If I had known that it was going to be this much fun, I would have started touring long ago.” 

As the riders descended 11 miles to the floor of the desert, they were briefed to remain vigilant.  “Dropping down to the desert on that beautiful stretch of road was very invigorating,” said Dan.  “There was the beautiful view ahead of you with the mountains and the desert that stretched as far as you could see, but you had to make sure you were watching the curves because they were coming up quickly.”    

Dan couldn’t help but compare this mountainous area with the Adirondacks in his home state.  “The mountains in the desert are obviously drier.  The vegetation is very thin and tough because of the lack of moisture in it.”  Dan also observed that the vegetation was thick-skinned and thorny in order to ward off any thirsty creatures. 

The drier climate was also a change for Dan in regard to his cycling experience.  “I immediately felt the difference in the dry desert air,” he said.  “It was very enjoyable because I could work out and not have the sweat rolling down my face and into my eyes.”                                                                               

The Anza-Borrego Desert State Park is a 600,000 acre preserve that hosts a wide variety of cacti, and the trip was planned to give the riders an opportunity to see the desert in bloom, blooms that also included poppies, chicory, desert lavender, pincushions, brittlebush, cholla, beavertail, lupine, spiny senna and many, many more.  The group was informed that they might see desert animals as well, such as roadrunners, kit foxes, golden eagles, big horn sheep, iguanas and rattlesnakes.  Dan took the time to point out a local, nonpoisonous snake to Deb and was impressed with how fast she could run and scream at the same time. 

There were some sightings of pre-historic wildlife during the ride through Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  The metal sculptures of Ricardo Brecedarise out of the desert along Borrego Springs Road and have been known to startle a few passersby who were not expecting a safari to be part of their trip.  These creations are meant to represent the animals that once roamed this area of California.  At the end of this thrilling ride the hot tubs, pools and California wine at Borrego Ranch Resort & Spa were a great way to cap off a perfect day of riding. 

The Desert

The resort’s website describes the Borrego Ranch Resort & Spa as “a luxury destination offering a blend of simple pleasures and extraordinary experiences for adults only.”  Dan was certainly impressed.  He describes it as dry, warm and peaceful.  “I would visit again in a heartbeat,” he said.  “I could go back and spend a week there.”

On the second full day at the Borrego Ranch Resort & Spa, the riders cycled out to the Salton Sea, an inland body of salt water.  Once part of an ancient sea the area became the site of extensive salt mining, but in 1907, the Imperial Valley dike on the Colorado River broke due to extensive rainfall and ice melt.  It took two years to stop the flooding and during that time, the Salton Sea formed.  The sea is 35 miles long and 15 miles wide with a maximum depth of 51 feet. 

Dan describes the sea as eerily still and smooth.  “Having spent four years as a sailor,” he said, “I expected to see some tidal action.  There was hardly any movement at all except the gulls and loons that were obviously enjoying themselves fishing.”

From the Salton Sea and the Borrego Ranch Resort & Spa, the group headed to Temecula Wine Country and the Inn at Churon Winery.  It might seem that the desert would be an unfriendly place to grow grapes, but the vineyard’s owner told Dan that the dryness produces a grape that will hold onto as much of its juice as possible. The riders sampled wines from a few of the wineries in the area and spent the night at Churon.  Dan is a big fan of California reds.  “I love the full body and rich earthiness of them,” he said.  “They always get me if they lace it with a touch of chocolate.”

Alas, the time had come for everyone to head home.  The wine, the warmth, the ocean and the desert were left behind for the chilly northeast.  Dan had such a great time on the trip that he plans to do it again next year.  He has also heard that the owners plan to include more of the Tour de California in the trip, which is one of the things that will draw him out to the west coast next February. 

See other travel articles by this author at:

• http://www.trifter.com/USA-&-Canada/New-York/Treasures-in-Tupper-Lake-New-York.591819
• http://www.trifter.com/USA-&-Canada/Georgia/Escapades-in-Georgia.628429