Trifter

The weather here on the Humboldt coast of northern California has been gorgeous this winter. Every morning there is frost on the rooftops, and the fields are crystally white. Around 8 the sun pops up above the redwoods and everything starts warming up, and moving around. The wild geese take flight and head to their favorite eateries, roaming up and down the coast, moving from field to field. The Aleutian geese have been growing in numbers, and have returned from the brink of extinction. We decided to go for a walk at the Humboldt Wildlife Refuge yesterday afternoon, and take a look at what was out along with the geese. The area once boasted the largest population of Black Brant geese on the West Coast, and is still host to large numbers of Canadian geese – Western, Cackling, and Aleutian – as well as Snow geese, Ross’ geese, Emperor and Greater White-fronted geese.

Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge is a short drive south of Eureka, and is a terrific place for a hike on a winter day, especially when the sun is shining. Take the Hookton Slough exit off Highway 101, then follow Hookton Slough Rd., til you reach the parking lot at the Wildlife Refuge. A well-kept trail on top of an old tidal dike follows the slough toward the Bay. Slough is not a good enough name for this lovely area of saltwater marsh and tidal flats… how else to describe it? It is a meandering coastal backwater stream, emptying into Humboldt Bay south of Eureka, on the north side of Table Bluff. The much larger estuary of the Eel River is on the south of Table Bluff. The bluff has open fields dotted with Sitka spruce and eucalyptus, which spill down the hillside to the edge of the marshes and tidal flats.

There are known to be around 400 species of birds found at various times of the year in Humboldt County, roughly half of them shore and sea birds, and about three fourths of them migrating birds that spend time seasonally in Humboldt County as part of their migratory habit. The Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge is roughly 3000 acres that were set aside to protect birds migrating along the Pacific Flyway. Many birds winter here, and come from Alaska and Canada.

It was ebb tide when we arrived. We walked out on the dike, enjoying the relative warm of this storm-free winter’s day. Tens of thousands of various types of shore birds were out feeding in the mud flats: Willits, Dunlins and Sanderlings, Curlews, Plovers, Yellowlegs and Avocets, Marbled godwits and Whimbrels, and many other species of sandpipers. There were terns and sea gulls soaring overhead, White tailed kites fluttering above the fields, and a few Harlequin ducks floating around. A Great blue heron lifted up and flew across the water, as a Snowy white egret landed in the shallows; across the flats, a flock of Tundra swan floated gracefully in solitude in  a distant pond.

We walked to the end of the trail, near the bay, then headed back to town for a hot cup of  red tea lstte and a bookstore.

If you happen to be in the area this winter, looking for a good place to walk a few miles and see some birdlife, this is the place to go. Recommended things to bring: a camera (we forgot ours), a pair of binoculars, or better yet a spotting scope, a bird ID book, and a thermos of hot coffee or tea. We brought none of these, but still had a great time. Dress in layers, it can be windy and cold. As for kids, yes, an easy trail even for the crankiest of kids, and bike riding is acceptable. The length of the trail roundtrip? We estimate 4 miles.