Trifter

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When you come to Lancaster for vacation, get off the route 30 strip, a highway of mock local culture, and experience some of the flavor of the parts of the county that only locals know best.

1. The Farmersville Auction: Incredibly difficult to find for non-locals (the town center is an intersection of North, South, East, and West Farmersville Roads–even GPS may misdirect you). Only 10 minutes from either routes 23 or 222, the auction is a great place to experience the intermingling of Plain folks and the “English” (that’s the rest of us).  Each Tuesday there is an auction of small items and furniture.  Antique dealers come from as far away as NYC to get great deals on local stuff.  It is hit or miss, a glorious combination of junk and antiques. 

Enjoy the snack bar, which has very cheap prices and fresh baked goods, and try your best to follow the auctioneers, who talk fast in English strongly tinged by the Pennsylvania Dutch accent.

(If you are in Farmersville on Friday, stop by the Farmersville butcher for farm-fresh bacon.  Nothing in the supermarkets comes close.) 

2. Where to eat: Lancaster City has several nice pubs.  The Dispensing Company, near the Central Market is an affordable place to get a good sandwich and a beer.  For an Irish theme, go to Annie Bailey’s, and for English, the destination is Quips.  Quips has dart boards, a wide selection of English brews and daily food specials.  My top choice is their Bangers and Mash: I am often tempted to get a second plate of sausages and mash potatoes, rather than another beer.  I have yet to succumb to that temptation. 

If you are in Leola, you have two very good options: Vinola’s, a new Italian bar, and Mazzi, an Italian Restaurant.  You have probably not come to Lancaster to partake of the Italian food, but keep in mind that the last time Uma Thurman came to Leola, she ate at Mazzi’s. 

On the topic of authenticity, beware of many of the diners that pretend to be PA Dutch.  Many are owned by non-locals who can’t make a decent pork and sauerkraut.  I had the regrettable experience recently of eating a very bland version of such a menu item at a diner recently.  You stand a much better chance of getting quality pork and sauerkraut at any of the small fire departments and churches who host such meals.

Bright’s, on route 272, has amazing broasted chicken.   They have family meal deals, which include plates of chicken and french fries and whole containers of Amish cole slaw.  This is my family’s favorite place to eat!

In the summer, buy fresh produce, especially corn, from the Amish farmstands. Husk it and boil it, or grill it in the husk.  Slather it with butter, real butter, and salt it to taste.  That is a meal in itself and much more authentic than any you can buy at a restaurant. 

3. Get lost on the back roads.  Turn off the GPS and just drive.  It is the only way to get a sense of the Amish lifestyle.  Get away from the flashing neon of route 30 and toss the travel guide.  Find farmstands set off the main roads and buy produce.  If you can find the “goat path”, an abandoned state road project, you earn serious Amish street cred.